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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Timy Fairfield, John Kear Spring 08, First 3 bolts Bryan Pletta
Page Views: 618 total · 5/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Dec 8, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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This new route is the longest route at Fillet et Papillon wall. It includes a powerful start to thought provoking face climbing, with some hard cruxes thrown in, to a no hands rest to the hardest moves just before the anchor. The downsides are a scary start on undercling flakes, less than stellar rock, and not much space between this and the adjacent routes.

Start just right of Window Shopping on some really scary looking flakes. Head up and pull the lip on a solid but loose looking jug. From here crimp your way up the wall, taking care to stay on the correct bolt line. Take advantage of any resting opportunities and pull hard moves where the wall steepens around the 8th bolt. Just underneath the final crux bulge resist the opportunity to top out just a few feet left and walk around to the anchors, instead persevere and make a difficult deadpoint to the anchor clipping jug.

Originally bolted as a variation to the start of Window Shopping by Bryan Pletta.

Felt quite difficult for the 12a grade and could easily be 12a/b or 12b.


Starts just right of Window Shopping, at the far right side of the cave. Next route right is Red Tag Sale.


11 Bolts to Chain Anchors. Stickclip mandatory on the looks of the starting holds.


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lance hadfield
lance hadfield   tijeras
this climb is cool! it has an interesting start crux and a great finish with some exciting (hollow) rock. very high entertainment on this one. Dec 21, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
If this is harder than 5.12a it is only because of the opening boulder problem. The face climbing above is mostly low end 5.11 with lots of good resting options to a slightly harder section just before the ledge, then a significantly easier boulder problem to the anchors.

Fun climbing but pretty hollow to start through maybe the first 3 or 4 bolts. Mar 8, 2009
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
This route needs a little reinforcement from a certain someone to keep it from falling apart. Some of the holds flex when you grab them, which is certainly less than inspiring. Timy, where are you now?!

I would agree with the .12a grade, certainly easier than Little Caterpillar Mar 9, 2009
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Maybe the problem is all that hangboard training is making you too strong for your own good. Easy there Hulk! Mar 9, 2009

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