All Locations > New Mexico > Socorro Area > The Box Climbin… > Northern Box areas > Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)
Too High for Bry
Avg: 2 from 6 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||Timy Fairfield, John Kear Spring 08, First 3 bolts Bryan Pletta|
|Page Views:||618 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Shirtless Mike on Dec 8, 2008|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionThis new route is the longest route at Fillet et Papillon wall. It includes a powerful start to thought provoking face climbing, with some hard cruxes thrown in, to a no hands rest to the hardest moves just before the anchor. The downsides are a scary start on undercling flakes, less than stellar rock, and not much space between this and the adjacent routes.
Start just right of Window Shopping on some really scary looking flakes. Head up and pull the lip on a solid but loose looking jug. From here crimp your way up the wall, taking care to stay on the correct bolt line. Take advantage of any resting opportunities and pull hard moves where the wall steepens around the 8th bolt. Just underneath the final crux bulge resist the opportunity to top out just a few feet left and walk around to the anchors, instead persevere and make a difficult deadpoint to the anchor clipping jug.
Originally bolted as a variation to the start of Window Shopping by Bryan Pletta.
Felt quite difficult for the 12a grade and could easily be 12a/b or 12b.
LocationStarts just right of Window Shopping, at the far right side of the cave. Next route right is Red Tag Sale.
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