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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Timmy Fairfield
Page Views: 517 total, 6/month
Shared By: WAGbag on Jan 17, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This looks like a terrible squeezed route until you climb it in which case it becomes a pretty good squeezed route. The climbing is more independent of Little Caterpillar than it looks with the exception of two clipping holds and some of the foot holds become crimps. It stays sustained all the way through making it difficult to pinpoint a crux and makes for a rather enjoyable route and would be better had it been a more independent line. Begin with a right hand in the large depression and a left just at the top. Use the foot-holds for Little Caterpillar as crimps and make a big move up and left to a crimp/pinch. Continue the obvious sequence of terrible crimps and worse feet until you find yourself trying to get to the last bolt. Here is where you can stay left and make a big move to a shallow 2-finger then rock over to a right for the clip, or stay slightly right and make some off-balance deadpoints to more terrible holds.

Timy originally graded this 12d but reconsidered and now thinks 13a.

Location

Black hangers starting at the large depression between Masta Ganj and Little Caterpillar.

Protection

3 or 4 bolts. Recommend pre-clipping the first bolt.

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