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Routes in Happy Hour Crag

Are We Not Men T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Are We Not Robots T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Aliens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bad Sneakers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bent Faith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Spit, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruel Shoes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementia T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Race, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grins T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Off T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I, Robot T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Call T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Laugh T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Side T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Malign T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightcap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perched-Pillar Pile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rush Hour T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seein' Double TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skid Row T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Teetotaler T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tipsey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twofers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Bypass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Gully T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 100 ft
FA: D. Hare, 1995
Page Views: 2,877 total, 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This climb is pretty fun and pretty technical.

Start this climb as for Grins, climbing that route to the top of the "tooth," about 50 feet up. Step to the left and clip a bolt, or vice versa, and do the crux move to establish yourself just left of the arete. Climb up at the edge of the arete past two more bolts with a second crux above the last bolt. Finish on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor & walk off or rap.

Protection

Standard light rack up to 3" plus 3 bolts for the 5.11 section. [Rossiter] calls for large RPs, but I think you're just as well going for it on the standard rack and trusting the bolts to catch you; it is not really runout.

This is a reasonable top-rope to set from near the top of Grins, but it would require a scramble to get to if starting from the top of the cliff.

You may need a 60m rope to TR this climb or to lower off.

Eds. the right bolt of the 2 bolt anchor without rings is protruding noticeably from the rock.

Photos

Does anyone know what the bolted line (4-5 bolts) is to the left? I liked it better, but that line felt harder than 11a. 11+? Apr 30, 2015
The bolts and anchor have been replaced. Thanks to the Boulder Climbing Community for supplying the hardware. Consider donating to them if you don't already. Apr 12, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Prod,
Essentially, yes. The second crux is right above the 2 bolts. I believe that someone added one because the first was sketchy, but didn't finish the job. Or maybe they intentionally wanted a bail point between the thinner crux (scarier). Mar 9, 2015
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
 
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
 
Sort of a 1 move wonder.

I am pretty sure we were on route. Here is what we encountered.

Clip bolt at top of tooth for Grins.
Make interesting transition move to 2nd bolt.
Keep heading up, 10' to 2 bolts? but not the anchor. Then up to the anchor?

Sound right to anyone?

Prod. Apr 13, 2012