Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 100 ft
FA: D. Hare, 1995
Page Views: 3,481 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

This climb is pretty fun and pretty technical.

Start this climb as for Grins, climbing that route to the top of the "tooth," about 50 feet up. Step to the left and clip a bolt, or vice versa, and do the crux move to establish yourself just left of the arete. Climb up at the edge of the arete past two more bolts with a second crux above the last bolt. Finish on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor & walk off or rap.

Protection

Standard light rack up to 3" plus 3 bolts for the 5.11 section. [Rossiter] calls for large RPs, but I think you're just as well going for it on the standard rack and trusting the bolts to catch you; it is not really runout.

This is a reasonable top-rope to set from near the top of Grins, but it would require a scramble to get to if starting from the top of the cliff.

You may need a 60m rope to TR this climb or to lower off.

Eds. the right bolt of the 2 bolt anchor without rings is protruding noticeably from the rock.

Photos