Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 100 ft
FA: D. Hare, 1995
Page Views: 3,142 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This climb is pretty fun and pretty technical.

Start this climb as for Grins, climbing that route to the top of the "tooth," about 50 feet up. Step to the left and clip a bolt, or vice versa, and do the crux move to establish yourself just left of the arete. Climb up at the edge of the arete past two more bolts with a second crux above the last bolt. Finish on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor & walk off or rap.


Standard light rack up to 3" plus 3 bolts for the 5.11 section. [Rossiter] calls for large RPs, but I think you're just as well going for it on the standard rack and trusting the bolts to catch you; it is not really runout.

This is a reasonable top-rope to set from near the top of Grins, but it would require a scramble to get to if starting from the top of the cliff.

You may need a 60m rope to TR this climb or to lower off.

Eds. the right bolt of the 2 bolt anchor without rings is protruding noticeably from the rock.


prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
Sort of a 1 move wonder.

I am pretty sure we were on route. Here is what we encountered.

Clip bolt at top of tooth for Grins.
Make interesting transition move to 2nd bolt.
Keep heading up, 10' to 2 bolts? but not the anchor. Then up to the anchor?

Sound right to anyone?

Prod. Apr 13, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Essentially, yes. The second crux is right above the 2 bolts. I believe that someone added one because the first was sketchy, but didn't finish the job. Or maybe they intentionally wanted a bail point between the thinner crux (scarier). Mar 9, 2015
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
The bolts and anchor have been replaced. Thanks to the Boulder Climbing Community for supplying the hardware. Consider donating to them if you don't already. Apr 12, 2015
Does anyone know what the bolted line (4-5 bolts) is to the left? I liked it better, but that line felt harder than 11a. 11+? Apr 30, 2015
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
Licheny, and the face has loose flakes that kept scaling off. 1 star at most for 3 bolts of climbing. Oct 26, 2018