Type: Trad, TR
FA: Kurt Gray and Charly Oliver, 1979
Page Views: 8,771 total · 39/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

186 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details


Start in the shallow, right-facing dihedral, about 2 feet to the left of the tree. Climb up to the ledge 10 feet up and slightly left, and then follow the crack running up and right to the top.


Look for the two trees, and bring long slings (20 feet).


This route can also be led with a standard rack, up to a #3.5 Camalot. The crack that I went up, moving left to right diagonally as you look up was flaring, but it did take two cams. Leading this is certainly an option before it gets covered in top ropes, although the flaring cracks made the pro less than ideal.

Not just for top roping! Sep 23, 2002
Kevin Craig  
If you lead this, make sure to have plenty of small gear for the thin fingers crack up above. Small nuts and Aliens work well. Some good finger locks in the crack, but the feet are mostly smears at the crux (a small bulge) - harder than it looks from below, but 5.7 feels about right. May 28, 2005
Cool crux, it's lots of fun if you only use the finger crack and don't wimp out and go left. There is a fixed stopper at the crux as of 3/18/06. I would say only using the finger crack by itself could go at 5.8. Mar 21, 2006
Jo Holloway
Jo Holloway  
I just did this as my first 5.7 lead. I found it relatively straight-forward to sew up the finger-crack on the upper part of the pitch with finger-sized cams (e.g., blue to yellow Aliens). If you have small-to-medium sized hands, you can get in some great finger locks that will get you through the smeary crux with limited fretting. Sep 30, 2006
Golden, CO
mt.wilson   Golden, CO
Sweet finger locks at the top. I would have given 3 stars if it were longer.... Mar 15, 2010
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
Taken direct, this has a well-protected UK 5a move in the top crack, so I don't understand the 5.7 rating. Oct 14, 2011
Longmont, Colorado
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
I gave this three stars, because the climbing is really great with a lot of fun moves, especially for such a moderate grade. Nov 19, 2011
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
Top half of climb is 3 stars, Great finger crack . Fun climb. The start was a little awkward but not difficult.

I'd agree with 5.7+ if you use just the crack on the upper part. Jul 6, 2014
David Tennant
Denver, CO
David Tennant   Denver, CO
All about that finger crack. There were also super straightforward gear placements for an anchor when you gain the ledge, so it would be pretty good for setting up a toprope.

Definitely give it a higher grade if starting in the corner immediately next to the tree, as well as if you stay with the finger crack that takes you to the same ledge as the 5.5 route to the left. May 22, 2015
Caleb Schwarz
Colorado Springs, CO
Caleb Schwarz   Colorado Springs, CO
On lead, if you stick strictly to the initial corner and the upper finger crack, it turns into quite the challenging route. Flared finger section that's a bit difficult to protect before the awesome last 10 feet of finger crack. Jul 28, 2017
Keith W
Keith W   Denvah
This is a very fun warm-up. The pro is decent, and the finger crack is awesome. For such a short pitch, this packs in a good time. Bomber finger locks and just a tiny bit heady for 5.7. Get after it! Oct 7, 2017