Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Dan Hare and Allen Wood, '79
Page Views: 7,024 total · 30/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Jun 6, 2001 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

This is a wonderful route. Start about 10-15 feet right of Dementia, work up nebulous terrain to gain a right-facing area with easy cracks. Work up into a thin crack that follows through a bulge. Stem and shimmy your way up and gain a nice, albeit short finger crack to the top. There are no bolts, set a nice anchor and watch the sun set over the canyon.

This is one of my favorite routes in the Canyon, and it is better than its neighbor Grins.

Protection

A standard rack, no real big gear necessary, up to a #2 Camalot and a few mid-size hexes. Smaller nuts/cams protect the business. A green Alien will protect the crux very well. There originally were no bolts at the top. Bring something to sling a large boulder and a larger cam or two for the belay.

Eds. there is a natural thread at the anchor.

Per Carl Schaefer: there is now a two-bolt anchor at the top, shared with Malign and Skid Row.

Photos