Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Dan Hare and Allen Wood, '79
Page Views: 8,436 total · 31/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Jun 6, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

293 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a wonderful route. Start about 10-15 feet right of Dementia, work up nebulous terrain to gain a right-facing area with easy cracks. Work up into a thin crack that follows through a bulge. Stem and shimmy your way up and gain a nice, albeit short finger crack to the top. There is now a 2 bolt anchor from which you can watch the sun set over the canyon.

This is one of my favorite routes in the Canyon, and it is better than its neighbor Grins.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack, no real big gear necessary, up to a #2 Camalot and a few mid-size hexes. Smaller nuts/cams protect the business. A green Alien will protect the crux very well. There originally were no bolts at the top. Bring something to sling a large boulder and a larger cam or two for the belay.

Eds. there is a natural thread at the anchor.

Per Carl Sampurna: there is now a two-bolt anchor at the top, shared with Malign and Skid Row.