Type: Trad, TR
FA: Dan Hare and Allen Wood, '79
Page Views: 6,124 total · 29/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Jun 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

206 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is a wonderful route. Start about 10-15 feet right of Dementia, work up nebulous terrain to gain a right-facing area with easy cracks. Work up into a thin crack that follows through a bulge. Stem and shimmy your way up and gain a nice, albeit short finger crack to the top. There are no bolts, set a nice anchor and watch the sun set over the canyon.

This is one of my favorite routes in the Canyon, and it is better than its neighbor Grins.


A standard rack, no real big gear necessary, up to a #2 Camalot and a few mid-size hexes. Smaller nuts/cams protect the business. A green Alien will protect the crux very well. There originally were no bolts at the top. Bring something to sling a large boulder and a larger cam or two for the belay.

Eds. there is a natural thread at the anchor.

Per Carl Schaefer: there is now a two-bolt anchor at the top, shared with Malign and Skid Row.


This is a fun route. It's a little easier than a 5.9, the only 5.9 sections is the small overhang 3/4 the way up. Even thought this site says that it's a trad route, you could easily top rope it with an anchor between a big rock and a tree. Aug 26, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
I agree with the 3 stars for sure. The 5.9 section is very short indeed, also you dont need to build an anchor if you just run your rope back a little to a tree up and left and belay from here. You can scramble down and right to get to the anchors for 'grins' and rappell or downclimb. A very enjoyable route with a mix of everything. Enjoy.. Nov 14, 2001
You might like having RPs for this climb, because the part below the crux is a bit tricky as well. A really good climb and a lot better than it looks from the ground. Sep 25, 2003
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
Right you are, Jay; this pitch is a lot more interesting than it looks from the ground. Sep 25, 2003
Brian Weinstein
Brian Weinstein  
Fun route, a good one to warm up on before hitting some of the other moderates. It didn't seem of very sustained nature. The crux was short, some interesting little bulges on the granite. Plenty of gear placements, seems like a good first 9 lead. Overall, Happy Hour is a great place to work on placing gear to your heart's delight while being able to challenge yourself. Nov 12, 2003
Definitely a nice route, not very sustained (much like Grins in that regard) but does have some tricky moves. Nov 17, 2003
Parker, Colorado
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
Great Route! I protected the crux with a green Alien, I actually took a very clean fall through the crux and the Alien was bomber. Jun 10, 2006
Joe Brannan
Lyons, CO
Joe Brannan   Lyons, CO
First 5.9 lead and it was awesome. Gear is easy and abundant. Had to hang on the rope a bit at the crux but eventually sacked up and made the move. Aug 27, 2008
Evan Deis  
Fun route with great movement. You'll find that the crux is evident, but not in the way of a good send; get high feet. Jun 14, 2009
Count Chockula
Littleton, CO
Count Chockula   Littleton, CO
I also had some trouble with the crux move in the corner. I may have plugged up the key finger lock for the right hand with a #0.5, so I French-freed the move to get my feet high enough to snag a good left hand finger lock and I was out of the corner.

I think I made the move harder than it needed to be, though. Sep 12, 2010
Albuquerque, NM
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
Really nice climb! Highly recommended. Well protected, long and fun.

I recommend bouldering to the obvious 3 inch crack about 25 feet up and plugging a Camalot #4. Jun 12, 2013
Boulder, CO
Ketchup   Boulder, CO
There is now a two bolt anchor with rings just below the top of this climb. Sep 29, 2014
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
It is possible to plug in a 0.5 Camalot at the crux move. If you set it low enough, there should still be room for a good finger lock above it. At least there was for me. A 0.4 might also work well. Fun climb! Sep 29, 2015
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
Fun crack climbing on the lower half and an interesting 10' crux section up top. A 60m rope is long enough from the anchors. Apr 23, 2018