Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Dan Hare and Allen Wood, '79
Page Views: 7,631 total · 31/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Jun 6, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

This is a wonderful route. Start about 10-15 feet right of Dementia, work up nebulous terrain to gain a right-facing area with easy cracks. Work up into a thin crack that follows through a bulge. Stem and shimmy your way up and gain a nice, albeit short finger crack to the top. There is now a 2 bolt anchor from which you can watch the sun set over the canyon.

This is one of my favorite routes in the Canyon, and it is better than its neighbor Grins.

Protection

A standard rack, no real big gear necessary, up to a #2 Camalot and a few mid-size hexes. Smaller nuts/cams protect the business. A green Alien will protect the crux very well. There originally were no bolts at the top. Bring something to sling a large boulder and a larger cam or two for the belay.

Eds. there is a natural thread at the anchor.

Per Carl Schaefer: there is now a two-bolt anchor at the top, shared with Malign and Skid Row.

Photos