Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,004 total · 29/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 10, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

137 Opinions

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Climb as for Dementia until you reach the small, blocky roof just below the cool arete/dihedral. Go to the right, under this roof, then up a short distance to something of a ledge. From there, look to the right again and climb the left-facing corner to a left-facing flake/corner, then up a right-facing corner above the flake to the top. Although this sounds like a wandering line, it is actually quite direct, and little drag will result if you use a few 2-foot runners.


Standard light rack up to 3". The line is reasonably easy to protect.


Regardless of ratings, I think this climb is [trickier] than its 5.8 [neighbor, Grins]. It's got some interesting moves and [isn't] that [wandering], great gear the whole way except maybe right off the ground depending how you start. [I'd] vote for 1.5 stars, it's worth doing. Nov 11, 2003
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
An interesting and varied climb. My wife thought it was tricky and didn't like it, but its puzzling nature is what makes it fun. A tallented newby climber cruised up this route with not much problem and came down shaking with terror. "That's _really_ high up there!" she commented. Amen.

If you rig a TR anchor from the small ledge at the top of Night Cap, you'll be looking at a long swing around some sharp edges. Dropping an anchor over the ledge about 8' to climber's right of Night Cap is probably optimal. From the ground, I can see a set of chains that might work, but I'll be damned if I can find them up top! Knowing Happy Hour, it's probably a mid-5th class scramble just to get there. Let us all remember the lesson of Mike Sofranko and Happy Hour... :-( May 27, 2005
Joel Larner
Fort Collins, CO
Joel Larner   Fort Collins, CO
This is a solid and sustained 5.7. The key is it is sustained. I had a friend who climbs 5.7 but rarely makes 5.8 that went up it quick and easy. I'll use that as a good [gauge] on the rating. Lots of varied moves make it fun.

It is quite long for a Happy Hour climb. Previous posting noted setting the anchor in the block above Nightcap. Instead I went left at that block and set the anchor off the tree (looks dead at first glance but is very much alive) and a few pieces to back it up. You can see the plaque for Mike from the anchor stance, and comfortably escape off to the top whey you want to pull the anchor later. Rope then comes down directly between Malign and Nightcap. At the anchor I was a little ways past half rope. Pulling all my pro on the belay down to let the rope hang straight instead of curving right in the route freed up enough rope to make it back to the ground. As you then climb to the right near the top, flick the rope over the rock and you're fine. I also TR'd Nightcap off this anchor and it was fine.

Lots of excellent opportunities for Pro on this route. A 5.7 lead will tend to put in a lot of pro since it is sustained 5.7, but be careful of the resultant rope drag due to all that pro and the right wandering nature of the route.

DON'T use the chains above "Thrill of the Chase" for this route. They are way to far left. You'll be looking at a huge swing and some good non-equalized side loading on the chains. Jun 18, 2005
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
This route is a lot more fun than it looks from below. Nice variety, good length, takes good pro but requires some thoughtful footwork to get comfortable stances. A great lead for the grade if at the crag. imho, grins has a harder crux. Jun 22, 2005
Dmitriy Zinchenko  
This was one of my first 5.7 leads and is quite momorable. Fun variations of moves keep things interesting and the gear is usually quite abundant. I was able to place anything from a blue TCU to a 3.5 Camalot, but since the route is a bit on the long side for Happy Hour, pack an adequate amount of pro. Right before the top you will see two finger-ish cracks: keep to the left one to avoid crossing ropes with anyone on Nightcap. Also, the belay ledge is quite roomy enough for two or three, should you need to share it. Oct 19, 2005
Kevin Craig  
Not sure about the "sustained" comment. Sure, many of the moves are 5.7, but there are also good rests after every 3-4 (maybe 5) moves (or maybe I'm just lazier/better at finding rests than many) ;^) There's a short OW about half way up. There's good gear below this, and a double length sling can be used to sling a chockstone near the end of the OW, but it's a bit strenuous to get in place. All-in-all a good, well-protected climb, if you're creative. Aug 15, 2006
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
I don't recommend using the trees near the top for an anchor. Too sketchy IMHO.

The OW was the mental crux for me because of the lack of pro. Yes, there is good pro below and above, but it sure seemed run out to me. Anyone else? I used my cordalette and set a fine anchor at the top of Nightcap. Nov 19, 2006
Albuquerque, NM
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
I found this route lots of fun. I'm a new trad leader, and found it easy to protect, with good moves, and nice and long. Don't be fooled by D'Antonio's single star. This is good!

For pro, bring single and double-length slings, as there are quite a few good spots for them during the climb, as well as at the top for a bomber anchor.

If you're looking for something a bit spicier, you can traverse climber's left about 15 meters and do an easy down-climb to the chains above Thrill of the Chase. Good TR. Use slings to protect the traverse. Jul 19, 2011
Jesse Trimble
Denver, CO
Jesse Trimble   Denver, CO
While leading this for the first time, I thought about slinging the chockstone in the off-width part. Wasn't quite able to get it, so I moved on without, but when I moved above it and stood on the chockstone, it moved under my weight very slightly. So it may not be a trustworthy feature for pro. Aug 29, 2013
Lyons, CO
Dankasaurus   Lyons, CO
Good route for new trad leaders. Plentiful gear, and if you bring large passive stuff, you can sink it everywhere. Fun! Jun 27, 2015
Dirk Diggler
Boulder, Colorado
Dirk Diggler   Boulder, Colorado
Sweet route. Climb it with only a set of nuts. There are many good places to put passive gear in. Mar 8, 2016
I was wondering how the OW would go. Turns out, it goes quite nicely if you reach in and find the crimp rail on the left bottom half. The route seemed at most 5.6 except for maybe one or two spots. Aug 7, 2017