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Routes in Happy Hour Crag

Are We Not Men T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Are We Not Robots T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Aliens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bad Sneakers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bent Faith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Spit, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruel Shoes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementia T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Race, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grins T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Off T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I, Robot T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Call T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Laugh T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Side T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Malign T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightcap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perched-Pillar Pile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rush Hour T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seein' Double TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skid Row T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Teetotaler T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tipsey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twofers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Bypass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Gully T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: B. Hansen, R. Lietner, 1989
Page Views: 2,125 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This climb is pretty fun and quite technical.

Start this climb up and right of Grins, just left of a series of short, right-facing dihedrals and pillars. Climb up some so-so rock to get to an arete with 4 bolts. Clip the first bolt and then work both sides of the arete. The multiple crux moves involve heel-hooking the arete and palm-smearing around it at times. The moves are more insecure than Last Laugh, in my opinion, but pretty fun!

Protection

Per Brian Hansen: this was originally led with one bolt.

4 QDs plus a few runners for the top. There is some distance between the bolts to be considered, but the route seems safe enough.

This is a reasonable top-rope from the anchors up and right of the top of Grins. You may want to rap off instead of lowering, however.

You may need a 60m rope to TR this climb or to lower off.

Photos

Brian Hansen
West of Boulder, CO
Brian Hansen   West of Boulder, CO
Originally led with one bolt. May 22, 2015
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
I thought the crux was a harder than 11a. It would be a difficult onsight as the holds aren't visible from your position as you enter the crux. Definitely take some small cams. Jun 4, 2014
Matt Burns
  5.10c
Matt Burns  
  5.10c
Easy to toprope, but the long "runout" up to the first bolt is all really easy (5.6 maybe?), and protectable with gear. I'm pretty certain that this is no harder than 10c, the most difficult moves are low near the first two bolts. Still fun, if you're at Happy Hour, throw a rope on it and enjoy. Feb 20, 2004
Tamas  
It is a climb well worth doing! Great moves on the crux! Can seem a bit runout (I didn't think so), but the crux is well bolted and the run out parts can be protected. Good hand jammin' before the bolts, great place for pro if needed. Easy to top rope from top of Grins. DO IT! Sep 22, 2002