Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
|FA:||D. Hare, B. Hanson, 1979|
|Page Views:||1,867 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on May 10, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
The line wanders up and left the whole way, across cracks, face, corners, overhangs, and knobs. Rossiter calls all of this "improbable terrain." I called it "fun!"
I also made an 'improbable finish' to the route that goes solid 5.10 and was excellent but runout. This will be discussed at the end of the description.
Start this climb just to the left of the finger of rock protruding from the ground at the base of "Grins." From the left side of this finger of rock, work up and left for a few moves onto a small ledge. There is little good pro available here, but the moves are 5.8. Move up and left on a sloping ledge and place a few good wires in a crack above your head. Next start moving up and left arond an arete on knobs and edges, through the slight overhang and up. Any gear placed here needs a 2-foot runner. You will reach a left-facing corner (as for Nightcap) and climb that for a few feet before reaching the top of a huge flake, where you merge with the climb Malign.
Finish as a 2-star climb as for Nightcap and Malign, by climbing the left-facing and then right-facing corner system *OR*...
Go out with a Bang! For a better finish (3-star in all), lean back and look hard left. You will see s series of small edges and knobs. This is well above "Tipsey." Place gear from the ledge, up and right in the left-facing corner, from here there is no more gear. Head out left, towards the anchors of "Thrill Of The Chase." Reach up and hard left for a crimp and pull through This left-hand traverse is solid 5.10 and would be a thumber fall, as the last gear will be about 20 feet to the right and 15 feet down; the flake you'd hit if you blow it looks HUNGRY. The moves are hard, and somewhat long but secure. This is reasonable for a 5.10+ leader as it is solid rock. Clip the "Thrill Of The Chase" anchors with a long runner and then continue up and left to the cliff top.
I called this finish "Thrill of the Skid."
This line sounds like it wanders a lot, but it continually moves left. Thus, the rope will run more or less in a nice line with judicious use of 2 to 3 foot runners.
This is not a very good top-rope due to the swing potential from the bottom and top moves.