Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Pat Clubine, Kurt Gray, Allan Wood, Alan Bradley, Dan Hare, 1979
Page Views: 1,960 total · 10/month
Shared By: shad O'Neel on May 2, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This route is just to the right of Hands Off. It is short, sweet, and hard. The long list of hard men that put this is up probably tribute to that.

The hardest moves are right from the beginning with very small fingers and marginal feel (for a 5.8 climber anyway). It gets easier (ha) as you ascent with a good shallow hand jam to rest on half way up. It's only 40-50 feet long, but it gives a good workout.

Protection

Small, small gear, maybe a #1. Anything goes for an anchor.

There is a stuck, unclippable TCU down low in the dihedral.

Photos

Jason Shatek
5.10b
Jason Shatek  
5.10b
This is way stiff at 5.9+ in my opinion. I thought [Dementia] (5.10a) was easier than this climb. The crux is right off the ground with poor feet and bad hands. I wanted so bad to get a good finger lock in the crack but just couldn't fit my digits in there. The pro is very good with small stoppers, blue and green Aliens. Be careful with your pro placements as I came within a foot or two of decking when I missed a clip. With that said, it seems like a very balancy climb that is much more about finesse and sequence than power. A good problem but more in the 5.10 range. Nov 14, 2005
Todd A
  5.10a
Todd A  
  5.10a
There's a very large boulder at the top and a little to the left for the anchor that looks solid, don't use it. I originally slung it with a runner. Then looked a little closer and gave it a little nudge, it moved, pushing it a little harder might have brought it down. Jun 20, 2006
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
I think this route is may be .10b if you have very thin fingers. I couldn't make the moves through the thin section, couldn't even get a fingertip lock with my fat fingers (and it doesn't help that the rock is absolutely polished with no real footholds to start), so I can't rate this; my friend who climbs solid 5.11 said he felt this was .10d/.11a. Sep 19, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
It seemed as if the path of least resistance is, once you get pro to start, to be just left of the dihedral for a couple moves utilizing some small footholds on that little face to get started. Then, you can reach around into the dihedral. Going straight up in the dihedral to start seemed forced. Nov 1, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a
I too think this climb is at least 10a in difficulty. The hard moves are at the bottom and only a body length long. The pro is good at the crux. Starting to the left is possible as Leo Paik mentions. Aug 22, 2014
Fehim Hasecic
Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
Fehim Hasecic   Boulder, CO
  5.10b PG13
Maybe if I had thinner fingers this would have been 10a. Couldn't jam my digits well past the shallow hand pod. Gear I used: two blue aliens, two green Aliens, red and yellow C3, blue DMM offset nut and BD 2. This sewed it up well. Mar 12, 2017