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Routes in Happy Hour Crag

Are We Not Men T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Are We Not Robots T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Aliens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bad Sneakers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bent Faith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Spit, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruel Shoes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementia T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Race, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grins T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Off T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I, Robot T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Call T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Laugh T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Side T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Malign T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightcap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perched-Pillar Pile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rush Hour T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seein' Double TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skid Row T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Teetotaler T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tipsey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twofers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Bypass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Gully T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Allen Wood and Dan Hare, 1979
Page Views: 8,112 total, 39/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Begin about 20 feet below a big "tooth". Climb along the right side of the tooth and then head up right along the flare. This is a good "arm" jam. Finish off the face for the last 15 feet to the two bolt anchor. This is an excellent route for the first time lead on trad and for beginners trad practice!

Protection

No bolts, use mid-sized nuts or small cams for most of the climb. You need a #3 Camalot for a large crack about 3/4 of the way up. Two bolt chained anchor at the top. You are able to top rope this ONLY with a 60m rope.
Grey Satterfield
Broomfield
  5.8+
Grey Satterfield   Broomfield
  5.8+
Super great climb, I found the crux much harder than Twofers. Just my two cents. Feb 17, 2017
rien WaNderlust
Nederland
 
rien WaNderlust   Nederland
 
As much fun as Dementia & Nightcap are, think I'd say my fave at Happy Hour! Jun 19, 2015
Karissa Sampson
Boulder, CO
Karissa Sampson   Boulder, CO
Awesome climb! The crux gets your heart pumping but has great hand holds, small holds and friction for feet. A member of our party had to bail off lead just past the crux as to avoid being late for work this morning. A small nut and nonlocker, tagged blue/purple, were left behind. I will be headed back tomorrow (Monday) after work to retrieve them, but if anyone is up there today...I would greatly appreciate them returned, in exchange for a couple beers on me after your climb. Nine-1-9-four26-seven1sevenfive. Climb on! Jul 7, 2013
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
Good route. Bad pro at the start, and good climbing doesn't begin until nearly half-way up the route! Twofers is better. Aug 14, 2011
Brown Guy
Lafayette, CO
 
Brown Guy   Lafayette, CO
 
I'm a super noob as far as trad leading is concerned and have probably lead a dozen routes... and I say Beauty!... very appropriately named. I grinned like a retard when I got to the top. This is one of the most sustained routes (<5.8). I've climbed at Happy Hour about 20 feet below the chains there was the option of going left or right. I attempted going right, placed a cam, clucked like a chicken, retrieved my cam, descended, and went left which I thought was easier... assuming I am not high, any comments on what this variation is rated?

I used 8 pieces total... 2 small Aliens, cam and hexes. Twofers was my first 5.8 lead on trad a couple weeks ago. If I were to compare I'd say this one was longer and more sustained with 2-3 interesting moves. Steve's story was a great way to get started on this route. Oct 4, 2009
Joe Brannan
Lyons, CO
Joe Brannan   Lyons, CO
My third 5.8 trad lead. I agree it was a great beginner route, as state above, for this grade. Jul 31, 2008
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Egads, Steve! Now you've gone and signed your name to that one. Sep 22, 2007
Last time I climbed this was with a semi-beginner. I think I'll leave off his name. He led it, belayed, then took in the rope. So far so good. At this point, as per usual, I wanted to put my climbing shoes on. I stepped back to grab them, but the rope was already tight. And stayed tight.

I yelled, ”slack!“ over and over, but the creek was high, he was way out of sight above, and he could not hear. In fact, he just pulled harder. So I ended up in midair, upside down, just off the ground; swinging like a mad spider, pawing the ground like a dog running on a hardwood floor and panting and laughing like a mad drunk, and eventually grabbed one shoe.

I righted myself, put it on hanging with my feet just inches off the ground, then commenced battle again. A crucial couple of inches had since been pulled in, so I could barely reach the ground anymore. Finally, I found a handy stick to prod the shoe closer, and lift it off the ground so I could grab it. Hmmmm. Rereading this, I think perhaps I should leave my name off too. Jun 26, 2007
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
Lot of fun. Don't miss it if at the crag. Jun 22, 2005
Jason Shatek  
 
Just led this one on saturday. very good route with lots of pro. The crux is definately turning a corner using hand jams, so make sure you can jam well. Plenty of pro, bring big cams 2,3,4 or big hexs for upper portion of the route. Dec 6, 2004
Fun climb. I think it's definitely a good first 5.8 lead as it isn't all that sustained and has plenty of good rest stances to get in solid pro. Oct 21, 2003
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
TRed this one yesterday and had a dandy time. As has been mentioned, a 50m rope is just long enough for the climb, which ever side of the tooth you start on. The anchors are pretty exposed, though and I rigged a bellay to get out there. Fantastic climb, 3-stars all the way. I didn't see too manyhand jam opportunities but there was a nice mix techniques from stemming to laybacks. The crux is about half way up with a thin finger crack/dihedral stem to a fat undercling to another layback.Anyway, gorgeous climb on quality rock! Sep 10, 2003
I agree with the three star rating. This is a fun pitch, and a great lead. The crux (for me) was a high-step from a stance at an undercling about halfway up. The gear is fantastic all the way up.

...and as much as I hate to disagree with Myke, I've belayed topropers on this climb with a 50m cord, and it works just fine. Feb 27, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
I agree that this route is a good route to hand jam in but perhaps not to be leading at first, it is easy but not that easy, take one of the routes to the left like Twofers and lead this for practice, but indeed this route has nice hand jams. I would give it 3 stars where you only gave it 2, it is worth 3. Nov 14, 2001
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
This is a good route for beginners to learn to hand-jam in. Sep 20, 2001