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5.8, Trad, TR,  Avg: 2.7 from 291 votes
FA: Allen Wood and Dan Hare, 1979
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Happy Hour Crag
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details


Begin about 20 feet below a big "tooth". Climb along the right side of the tooth and then head up right along the flare. This is a good "arm" jam. Finish off the face for the last 15 feet to the two bolt anchor. This is an excellent route for the first time lead on trad and for beginners trad practice!


No bolts, use mid-sized nuts or small cams for most of the climb. You need a #3 Camalot for a large crack about 3/4 of the way up. Two bolt chained anchor at the top. You are able to top rope this ONLY with a 60m rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Marga Powell at the crux move left.  You can get a small cam under the flake to the right and a #2 Camalot in the hand crack on the ramp to protect this move.
[Hide Photo] Marga Powell at the crux move left. You can get a small cam under the flake to the right and a #2 Camalot in the hand crack on the ramp to protect this move.
Grins 5.8, full view.
[Hide Photo] Grins 5.8, full view.
Just below the crux. Bill?
[Hide Photo] Just below the crux. Bill?
Happy Hour Crags, Grins, TR with Angie Parris-Raney.
[Hide Photo] Happy Hour Crags, Grins, TR with Angie Parris-Raney.
Near the top.
[Hide Photo] Near the top.
Chewie leading Grins.
[Hide Photo] Chewie leading Grins.
Ruth Larner enjoying Grins.
[Hide Photo] Ruth Larner enjoying Grins.
Joe C. cruising through the wide section on Grins.
[Hide Photo] Joe C. cruising through the wide section on Grins.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This is a good route for beginners to learn to hand-jam in. Sep 20, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
[Hide Comment] I agree that this route is a good route to hand jam in but perhaps not to be leading at first, it is easy but not that easy, take one of the routes to the left like Twofers and lead this for practice, but indeed this route has nice hand jams. I would give it 3 stars where you only gave it 2, it is worth 3. Nov 14, 2001
[Hide Comment] I agree with the three star rating. This is a fun pitch, and a great lead. The crux (for me) was a high-step from a stance at an undercling about halfway up. The gear is fantastic all the way up.

...and as much as I hate to disagree with Myke, I've belayed topropers on this climb with a 50m cord, and it works just fine. Feb 27, 2002
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
[Hide Comment] TRed this one yesterday and had a dandy time. As has been mentioned, a 50m rope is just long enough for the climb, which ever side of the tooth you start on. The anchors are pretty exposed, though and I rigged a bellay to get out there. Fantastic climb, 3-stars all the way. I didn't see too manyhand jam opportunities but there was a nice mix techniques from stemming to laybacks. The crux is about half way up with a thin finger crack/dihedral stem to a fat undercling to another layback.Anyway, gorgeous climb on quality rock! Sep 10, 2003
[Hide Comment] Fun climb. I think it's definitely a good first 5.8 lead as it isn't all that sustained and has plenty of good rest stances to get in solid pro. Oct 21, 2003
[Hide Comment] Just led this one on saturday. very good route with lots of pro. The crux is definately turning a corner using hand jams, so make sure you can jam well. Plenty of pro, bring big cams 2,3,4 or big hexs for upper portion of the route. Dec 6, 2004
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Lot of fun. Don't miss it if at the crag. Jun 22, 2005
[Hide Comment] Last time I climbed this was with a semi-beginner. I think I'll leave off his name. He led it, belayed, then took in the rope. So far so good. At this point, as per usual, I wanted to put my climbing shoes on. I stepped back to grab them, but the rope was already tight. And stayed tight.

I yelled, ”slack!“ over and over, but the creek was high, he was way out of sight above, and he could not hear. In fact, he just pulled harder. So I ended up in midair, upside down, just off the ground; swinging like a mad spider, pawing the ground like a dog running on a hardwood floor and panting and laughing like a mad drunk, and eventually grabbed one shoe.

I righted myself, put it on hanging with my feet just inches off the ground, then commenced battle again. A crucial couple of inches had since been pulled in, so I could barely reach the ground anymore. Finally, I found a handy stick to prod the shoe closer, and lift it off the ground so I could grab it. Hmmmm. Rereading this, I think perhaps I should leave my name off too. Jun 26, 2007
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Egads, Steve! Now you've gone and signed your name to that one. Sep 22, 2007
Joe Brannan
Lyons, CO
[Hide Comment] My third 5.8 trad lead. I agree it was a great beginner route, as state above, for this grade. Jul 31, 2008
Brown Guy
Lafayette, CO
[Hide Comment] I'm a super noob as far as trad leading is concerned and have probably lead a dozen routes... and I say Beauty!... very appropriately named. I grinned like a retard when I got to the top. This is one of the most sustained routes (<5.8). I've climbed at Happy Hour about 20 feet below the chains there was the option of going left or right. I attempted going right, placed a cam, clucked like a chicken, retrieved my cam, descended, and went left which I thought was easier... assuming I am not high, any comments on what this variation is rated?

I used 8 pieces total... 2 small Aliens, cam and hexes. Twofers was my first 5.8 lead on trad a couple weeks ago. If I were to compare I'd say this one was longer and more sustained with 2-3 interesting moves. Steve's story was a great way to get started on this route. Oct 4, 2009
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] Good route. Bad pro at the start, and good climbing doesn't begin until nearly half-way up the route! Twofers is better. Aug 14, 2011
Karissa Sampson
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb! The crux gets your heart pumping but has great hand holds, small holds and friction for feet. A member of our party had to bail off lead just past the crux as to avoid being late for work this morning. A small nut and nonlocker, tagged blue/purple, were left behind. I will be headed back tomorrow (Monday) after work to retrieve them, but if anyone is up there today...I would greatly appreciate them returned, in exchange for a couple beers on me after your climb. Nine-1-9-four26-seven1sevenfive. Climb on! Jul 7, 2013
rien WaNderlust
[Hide Comment] As much fun as Dementia & Nightcap are, think I'd say my fave at Happy Hour! Jun 19, 2015
Grey Satterfield
[Hide Comment] Super great climb, I found the crux much harder than Twofers. Just my two cents. Feb 17, 2017
Brett Broderick
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This was the first 5.8 I attempted to lead. I can't hand jam at all. So the crux was rough. Ended up having to pull on gear. The crux protects really well though. You can pretty much have gear above you the whole way. I wouldn't recommend it for a beginner leader unless they climb like 5.11. Just my two cents as a beginner leader. May 24, 2018
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Short 5.8 sections to great rests with plenty of pro options make this a great first 5.8 trad climb. Short sections in the middle provide good opportunities to hand jam. New leaders may want a BD #3.5 or #4 cam higher up for the fist-sized section. Oct 26, 2018