Type: Trad, TR
FA: D. Hare, C. Oliver, 1979
Page Views: 3,116 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 10, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb as for Dementia until you reach the small blocky roof just below the cool arete/dihedral. Go to the right, under this roof, then up a short distance to something of a ledge. From there, look to the right again and climb the left-facing corner for a short distance. A left-leaning crack will appear on your left, which is not as hard as it looks. Climb up and left on this crack to bypass the overhang (good pro), then from a ledge up to the top of the crags on easy cracks.

Although this line wanders a bit, the drag is not too bad with judicious use of 2-foot runners.

Protection Suggest change

A standard light rack up to 3". The pro and placements are reasonable, but take a few longer slings if you plan to place a lot of gear.

It can now be finished at the 2 bolt anchor for Seein' Double.

Per Michael Stark: a microwave-sized death block is ready to go on top of the ledge as you pull out of the wide crack, just before heading left on to the face. 

Photos

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