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Routes in Happy Hour Crag

Are We Not Men T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Are We Not Robots T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Aliens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bad Sneakers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bent Faith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Spit, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruel Shoes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementia T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Race, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grins T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Off T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I, Robot T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Call T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Laugh T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Side T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Malign T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightcap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perched-Pillar Pile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rush Hour T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seein' Double TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skid Row T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Teetotaler T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tipsey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twofers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Bypass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Gully T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Chris Scanlon and Dave Rice, c. 1974.
Page Views: 15,698 total, 76/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Begin beneath the obvious left leaning V- slot roof near the middle of the crag. An awkward mantle brings you into the short but technical crux - the narrow V-slot with a thin fingers crack. Good smears and bomber fingerlocks through the crux. Solid 10a.

Protection

Small nuts and cams up to #1 Camalot. Small cams for the business. A traverse out the top leads to chain anchors. Long runners to avoid rope drag if toproping.
There's now a nut keeping the unreachable tricam and the fixed cam company near the top of the open book. It wiggles ever so slightly but definitely wasn't coming out after our whole group TR'd the route.

Brian, seems like each person in my group did it a bit differently. I faced right in the lower part of the book (left hand in finger crack, right hand using right arete), then turned around and did a left foot high step and cranked a really hard left sidepull to stand up on it. Definitely a power move after using both rattly fingers in the crack at various times while unclipping directionals on TR. Aug 7, 2017
Brian Carver
Boulder, Co
Brian Carver   Boulder, Co
I've found 2 different options to get through the crux. The one I see most people do is to do a very thin, wide stem move across the book and grab the horn with your left hand. The other is to climb the finger crack a bit higher until your left foot can stem across to that same horn. Although the finger crack option is harder, I feel it is the more quality way to climb the route and makes it one of the hardest 10a's I've ever tried. Anybody else have an opinion on this? May 2, 2017
Travis Provin
Boulder CO
 
Travis Provin   Boulder CO
 
TR'd this but wouldn't do it again. The rope drops into a crack and runs over a bit of a ledge Sep 22, 2016
Psuedoazn
  5.10a
Psuedoazn  
  5.10a
Amazing route!

I was climbing Dementia today and was unable to retrieve my BD #0.3 cam from the top of crux.

If anyone frees it or finds it, I would gladly offer a 24-pack of beer of your choosing if I could get that essential piece of my rack returned. I would be so grateful! May 14, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
I agree with Ron Olsen, it felt easier than Cosmosis. Mar 15, 2013
^^^ I ate your yellow Metolius for breakfast!!! Sep 29, 2012
Timothy
Fort Collins, Colorado
Timothy   Fort Collins, Colorado
I tried getting your yellow Metolius out but to no avail, sorry, my friend. May 28, 2012
A0hero
Detroit, MI
A0hero   Detroit, MI
My #2 Mastercam walked itself into oblivion in the middle of the finger crack. If you can get it out, I owe you a 6 pack. Thanks! May 26, 2012
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10a
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.10a
A great line but a proper grunt. Oct 14, 2011
Finally lead this climb after cleaning it about 4 months ago and so glad I did. All I have to say is don't get splitter vision like me, cuz it gets way steep. Fortunately I looked around in time to get some good stemming in while placing the 0.3? before gunning it to the top. Nov 21, 2010
At 6'4", my partner had no trouble stemming to a great left foothold while in the V slot. At 5'1", I obviously couldn't reach it unless I had been wearing 9" spiked heels with sticky rubber. Chimney technique is the way to go if you're on the short side like me. Oct 11, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
This climb is pretty strenuous going up through the V slot unless you figure out the beta better than I did. I just kinda jumped for the hold right at the roof, because I was sick of the finger locks. It was pretty sustained. One of the more "true" 5.10a's in the canyon. The gear is bomber throughout, and there is a #0.3 C4 jammed in right below what I thought was the crux. Apr 21, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
One of the best climbs at the crag. I'm 5'9"; the v slot isn't a problem if you chimney up with right hand in the crack, left hand flat on the wall at your back by the arete and feet smearing on the features. It's a cool section. Sep 23, 2007
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.10a
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.10a
You go with that pink tricam, Kevin! A man after my own heart. (There aren't many of us left. Let's form a support group!)
From the route description:
"...A traverse out the top leads to chain anchors. Long runners to avoid rope drag if toproping."
I would think twice about toproping Dementia from the chains. The angles and swing potential for the climber once in the 'business' would be...interesting. If toproping it, build a solid directional after exiting the roof or, better yet, just get ya some small gear and go for it. It's remarkably safe as a lead. Jun 16, 2007
KevinCO
Loveland, CO
 
KevinCO   Loveland, CO
 
This route is very memorable...short but sweet! I found the smallest tricams to be perfect placements in the cruxy section. Oct 15, 2006
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
Fun route...attempted with H. McIntyre on 5/14/06 but backed off the crux because the smallest cam I had was a 0.5 Camalot. I'd recommend red and yellow Aliens or equivalent size for the finger crack. Would have preferred to use stoppers, but I didn't think the geometry of the crack looked all that good for stopper placements. Or, maybe I'm just chicken. May 18, 2006
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10a
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10a
Was on the sharp end of this stellar route today, and agree with Ron and others, in that those with a long inseam (I'm 5'11") will not have to go to the top of the crack for a stem way left. This stem is a long/wide one, and is 3/4 the way up the crack, involving a short smear up the face with close to perfect finger/hand jams on great rock. The sequence above the open book is also excellent... Thoughtful, sustained moves throughout... Protects well with medium to large stoppers, small cams up to and including a #2 Camalot. Sep 1, 2004
TBlom  
I used two #2 Metolius cams at the crux. You can equilize a few nuts at the last ledge stance (medium to small I think). I remember using a #3 Metolius after the crux. I got the stem move (5'11"), You can reach way out and do a palm smear, then swing your left leg out to stem. I also found good footholds on the overhanging (right) side of the book. I onsighted this but fell on Cosmosis, I guess they're both around 10a, Cosmosis is just much more sustained. This was one of my first 10a trad leads, super cool route. Kind of like Yosemite but shorter. Aug 21, 2004
Brian Weinstein
  5.10a
Brian Weinstein  
  5.10a
Delightful. The grade is right on for the crux, which is the open book slightly overhung tasty fingers bit. It's solid fingers and placements makes it the perfect first 10 lead. Way to grunt sal! There is a fixed cam just atop the crux which looks a little worn but still good. Next time, rock, paper, scissors is mine to win. Nov 12, 2003
Jeff Sallen
San Diego
  5.10a
Jeff Sallen   San Diego
  5.10a
I felt that this route was very true to its grade. I have lead many bolted 10s and 11s, however this was my first ever 5.10 trad lead. I enjoyed the route very much. The slightly overhanging open book is killer, and the finger locks are bomber. For future climbers who are just pushing into 10s on gear, I recommend keeping your pro organized and ready to plug in, when in the open book. I chose to keep a yellow Alien in my mouth, so that I would not have to futz with finding gear on my belt. Overall, the route was killer, I had a great time, and it was even November. Nov 11, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
One of the best routes at Happy Hour. Interesting, sustained climbing from bottom to top. The difficulty of the crux is height-dependent: I'm tall enough (6' 1") to be able to do it with a wide stem, but shorter climbers have to do a harder sequence. For me, the crux is more like 5.9 than 5.10a, but I have seen shorter climbers who can do other Boulder Canyon 5.9s struggle with the crux. For sure, Dementia is easier than Cosmosis, so perhaps the 10a rating is a bit inflated.

Easier than Cosmosis, and easier if you're tall. Sep 25, 2003
This route is not as good as the hype...pretty much a ledge walk all the way up the thing. One hard move at the top of the flared grove and it's over. A good first 10 lead. Sep 25, 2003
It is a good climb, a fun climb, but there are harder 5.9s in the canyon. Feb 4, 2003
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
A very impressive route and a solid 10a for sure. Nuts protect the crux as well as TCU's so pop em' in there and crank. A really good character building lead for the ambitious 5.10 leaders in the group, I would say the best route at Happy Hour and a very stiff lead, enjoyed it a lot ! 5 stars on a 3 star rating. Nov 14, 2001
That's funny, Mark! Isn't this the ONLY 5.10 at Happy Hour?? OK, I guess Cheers is 10a too. But I count only 2 5.10's! Aug 13, 2001
Solid 10a through the crux and a fantastic climb. Two bombproof palcements through the crux (a blue and yellow TCU) inspires much confidence. Probably the best route at Happy Hour for its grade. Jun 28, 2001