Type: Trad, TR
FA: Chris Scanlon and Dave Rice, c. 1974.
Page Views: 17,112 total · 77/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

232 Opinions

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Begin beneath the obvious left leaning V- slot roof near the middle of the crag. An awkward mantle brings you into the short but technical crux - the narrow V-slot with a thin fingers crack. Good smears and bomber fingerlocks through the crux. Solid 10a.


Small nuts and cams up to #1 Camalot. Small cams for the business. A traverse out the top leads to chain anchors. Long runners to avoid rope drag if toproping.
Solid 10a through the crux and a fantastic climb. Two bombproof palcements through the crux (a blue and yellow TCU) inspires much confidence. Probably the best route at Happy Hour for its grade. Jun 28, 2001
That's funny, Mark! Isn't this the ONLY 5.10 at Happy Hour?? OK, I guess Cheers is 10a too. But I count only 2 5.10's! Aug 13, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
A very impressive route and a solid 10a for sure. Nuts protect the crux as well as TCU's so pop em' in there and crank. A really good character building lead for the ambitious 5.10 leaders in the group, I would say the best route at Happy Hour and a very stiff lead, enjoyed it a lot ! 5 stars on a 3 star rating. Nov 14, 2001
It is a good climb, a fun climb, but there are harder 5.9s in the canyon. Feb 4, 2003
This route is not as good as the hype...pretty much a ledge walk all the way up the thing. One hard move at the top of the flared grove and it's over. A good first 10 lead. Sep 25, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
One of the best routes at Happy Hour. Interesting, sustained climbing from bottom to top. The difficulty of the crux is height-dependent: I'm tall enough (6' 1") to be able to do it with a wide stem, but shorter climbers have to do a harder sequence. For me, the crux is more like 5.9 than 5.10a, but I have seen shorter climbers who can do other Boulder Canyon 5.9s struggle with the crux. For sure, Dementia is easier than Cosmosis, so perhaps the 10a rating is a bit inflated.

Easier than Cosmosis, and easier if you're tall. Sep 25, 2003
Jeff Sallen
San Diego
Jeff Sallen   San Diego
I felt that this route was very true to its grade. I have lead many bolted 10s and 11s, however this was my first ever 5.10 trad lead. I enjoyed the route very much. The slightly overhanging open book is killer, and the finger locks are bomber. For future climbers who are just pushing into 10s on gear, I recommend keeping your pro organized and ready to plug in, when in the open book. I chose to keep a yellow Alien in my mouth, so that I would not have to futz with finding gear on my belt. Overall, the route was killer, I had a great time, and it was even November. Nov 11, 2003
Brian Weinstein
Brian Weinstein  
Delightful. The grade is right on for the crux, which is the open book slightly overhung tasty fingers bit. It's solid fingers and placements makes it the perfect first 10 lead. Way to grunt sal! There is a fixed cam just atop the crux which looks a little worn but still good. Next time, rock, paper, scissors is mine to win. Nov 12, 2003
I used two #2 Metolius cams at the crux. You can equilize a few nuts at the last ledge stance (medium to small I think). I remember using a #3 Metolius after the crux. I got the stem move (5'11"), You can reach way out and do a palm smear, then swing your left leg out to stem. I also found good footholds on the overhanging (right) side of the book. I onsighted this but fell on Cosmosis, I guess they're both around 10a, Cosmosis is just much more sustained. This was one of my first 10a trad leads, super cool route. Kind of like Yosemite but shorter. Aug 21, 2004
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Was on the sharp end of this stellar route today, and agree with Ron and others, in that those with a long inseam (I'm 5'11") will not have to go to the top of the crack for a stem way left. This stem is a long/wide one, and is 3/4 the way up the crack, involving a short smear up the face with close to perfect finger/hand jams on great rock. The sequence above the open book is also excellent... Thoughtful, sustained moves throughout... Protects well with medium to large stoppers, small cams up to and including a #2 Camalot. Sep 1, 2004
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
Fun route...attempted with H. McIntyre on 5/14/06 but backed off the crux because the smallest cam I had was a 0.5 Camalot. I'd recommend red and yellow Aliens or equivalent size for the finger crack. Would have preferred to use stoppers, but I didn't think the geometry of the crack looked all that good for stopper placements. Or, maybe I'm just chicken. May 18, 2006
Loveland, CO
KevinCO   Loveland, CO
This route is very memorable...short but sweet! I found the smallest tricams to be perfect placements in the cruxy section. Oct 15, 2006
Clint Locks
Clint Locks   Boulder
You go with that pink tricam, Kevin! A man after my own heart. (There aren't many of us left. Let's form a support group!)
From the route description:
"...A traverse out the top leads to chain anchors. Long runners to avoid rope drag if toproping."
I would think twice about toproping Dementia from the chains. The angles and swing potential for the climber once in the 'business' would be...interesting. If toproping it, build a solid directional after exiting the roof or, better yet, just get ya some small gear and go for it. It's remarkably safe as a lead. Jun 16, 2007
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
One of the best climbs at the crag. I'm 5'9"; the v slot isn't a problem if you chimney up with right hand in the crack, left hand flat on the wall at your back by the arete and feet smearing on the features. It's a cool section. Sep 23, 2007
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
This climb is pretty strenuous going up through the V slot unless you figure out the beta better than I did. I just kinda jumped for the hold right at the roof, because I was sick of the finger locks. It was pretty sustained. One of the more "true" 5.10a's in the canyon. The gear is bomber throughout, and there is a #0.3 C4 jammed in right below what I thought was the crux. Apr 21, 2009
At 6'4", my partner had no trouble stemming to a great left foothold while in the V slot. At 5'1", I obviously couldn't reach it unless I had been wearing 9" spiked heels with sticky rubber. Chimney technique is the way to go if you're on the short side like me. Oct 11, 2010
Finally lead this climb after cleaning it about 4 months ago and so glad I did. All I have to say is don't get splitter vision like me, cuz it gets way steep. Fortunately I looked around in time to get some good stemming in while placing the 0.3? before gunning it to the top. Nov 21, 2010
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
A great line but a proper grunt. Oct 14, 2011
Detroit, MI
A0hero   Detroit, MI
My #2 Mastercam walked itself into oblivion in the middle of the finger crack. If you can get it out, I owe you a 6 pack. Thanks! May 26, 2012
Fort Collins, Colorado
Timothy   Fort Collins, Colorado
I tried getting your yellow Metolius out but to no avail, sorry, my friend. May 28, 2012
^^^ I ate your yellow Metolius for breakfast!!! Sep 29, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I agree with Ron Olsen, it felt easier than Cosmosis. Mar 15, 2013
Amazing route!

I was climbing Dementia today and was unable to retrieve my BD #0.3 cam from the top of crux.

If anyone frees it or finds it, I would gladly offer a 24-pack of beer of your choosing if I could get that essential piece of my rack returned. I would be so grateful! May 14, 2013
Travis Provin
Boulder CO
Travis Provin   Boulder CO
TR'd this but wouldn't do it again. The rope drops into a crack and runs over a bit of a ledge Sep 22, 2016
Brian Carver
Boulder, Co
Brian Carver   Boulder, Co
I've found 2 different options to get through the crux. The one I see most people do is to do a very thin, wide stem move across the book and grab the horn with your left hand. The other is to climb the finger crack a bit higher until your left foot can stem across to that same horn. Although the finger crack option is harder, I feel it is the more quality way to climb the route and makes it one of the hardest 10a's I've ever tried. Anybody else have an opinion on this? May 2, 2017
There's now a nut keeping the unreachable tricam and the fixed cam company near the top of the open book. It wiggles ever so slightly but definitely wasn't coming out after our whole group TR'd the route.

Brian, seems like each person in my group did it a bit differently. I faced right in the lower part of the book (left hand in finger crack, right hand using right arete), then turned around and did a left foot high step and cranked a really hard left sidepull to stand up on it. Definitely a power move after using both rattly fingers in the crack at various times while unclipping directionals on TR. Aug 7, 2017
John Rader
Boulder, CO
John Rader   Boulder, CO
I got a blue 0.4 X4 cam stuck in the dihedral today and couldn't manage to get it out. If anyone returns it, I'd be very thankful and treat you to a six pack. Mar 15, 2018
Isaac Mauro
Fort Collins, CO
Isaac Mauro   Fort Collins, CO
Definitely the best route at the crag. Super well-protected the entire time, a great first 10 lead. Leave most of the hand-sized cams on the ground, bring stoppers and small cams (0.5 c4 and smaller), and maybe 1 #3 c4 for the roof at the top of the corner. Bring some draws to extend your cams in the crux corner, otherwise you may never get them back. Way easier on lead than on the follow, cleaning the gear gets you nice and pumped, whereas on lead, it's a nice, quick placement. Apr 8, 2019