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Routes in Happy Hour Crag

Are We Not Men T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Are We Not Robots T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Aliens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bad Sneakers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bent Faith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Spit, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruel Shoes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementia T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Race, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grins T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Off T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I, Robot T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Call T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Laugh T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Side T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Malign T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightcap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perched-Pillar Pile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rush Hour T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seein' Double TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skid Row T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Teetotaler T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tipsey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twofers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Bypass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Gully T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 3,866 total, 30/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Jun 5, 2007 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route doesn't appear in Rossiter's or Rolofson's Boulder Canyon guidebooks, but I'm sure it's been climbed for a long time.

The route is a good beginner lead as it can be sewn up. The crux is brief and well-protected.

Location

This route is the first crack system to the left of I, Robot. Walk off the top.

Protection

Standard rack. A bigger piece might ease the mind of a beginning leader. A sturdy tree at the top of the route can be tied off for an anchor.

Photos

Jeff Limbocker
Boulder, CO
 
Jeff Limbocker   Boulder, CO
 
Good route. As others have said, the pro at the crux can be a little wide. Deep in the back of the crack near the top is a tipped out #3, so a #4 would probably work. Having nothing quite that wide, I placed a 0.3 in the sidepull and just decided not to fall. This was a friend's first ever outdoor climb, and it seemed like a good fit for him. Jul 24, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.5
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.5
A #4 Camalot works great. You could place something bigger, but it is really not necessary. Jan 15, 2014
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
  5.5
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
  5.5
Also, I think a number 4 works just fine in the crux. You can even bring up another if you want to protect the final 4th class moves to the anchor. Jan 3, 2012
Joshinator
Longmont, Colorado
  5.5
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
  5.5
The climbing on this route is all pretty straightforward, but I thought the crux was a little spicy and I took my time with it. Nov 19, 2011
Stacy Fobar
Denver, CO
 
Stacy Fobar   Denver, CO
 
You can easily set up a TR from the tree at the top of this climb. I would suggest hiking up the left side to set up the TR and hiking back down vs. rapping since the top is rather blocky and would make for a slow and careful rap. Great exposure to rock for beginners. Apr 29, 2010
HTP
Longmont, CO
 
HTP   Longmont, CO
 
You can really sew this up with medium to big gear--very reassuring for beginning leaders. Scott mentioned his #4 Camalot wasn't big enough, but I found a place to make it work...and even climbed higher and scooted it up, so I guess I found two spots for it. :) Sep 13, 2009
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
 
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
 
Great route...just a note that I found that a #4 BD wasn't big enough for the crux (if you want it). Next time I'll probably at least bring a #4.5. You can avoid the big piece by placing a cam up in the crux sidepull. Aug 23, 2009
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.5
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.5
Great route for beginners. Jul 6, 2007