Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 4,397 total · 30/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Jun 5, 2007 with improvements by Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This route doesn't appear in Rossiter's or Rolofson's Boulder Canyon guidebooks, but I'm sure it's been climbed for a long time.

The route is a good beginner lead as it can be sewn up. The crux is brief and well-protected.


This route is the first crack system to the left of I, Robot. Walk off the top.


Standard rack. A bigger piece might ease the mind of a beginning leader. A sturdy tree at the top of the route can be tied off for an anchor.


Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
Great route for beginners. Jul 6, 2007
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
Great route...just a note that I found that a #4 BD wasn't big enough for the crux (if you want it). Next time I'll probably at least bring a #4.5. You can avoid the big piece by placing a cam up in the crux sidepull. Aug 23, 2009
Longmont, CO
HTP   Longmont, CO
You can really sew this up with medium to big gear--very reassuring for beginning leaders. Scott mentioned his #4 Camalot wasn't big enough, but I found a place to make it work...and even climbed higher and scooted it up, so I guess I found two spots for it. :) Sep 13, 2009
Stacy Fobar
Denver, CO
Stacy Fobar   Denver, CO
You can easily set up a TR from the tree at the top of this climb. I would suggest hiking up the left side to set up the TR and hiking back down vs. rapping since the top is rather blocky and would make for a slow and careful rap. Great exposure to rock for beginners. Apr 29, 2010
Longmont, Colorado
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
The climbing on this route is all pretty straightforward, but I thought the crux was a little spicy and I took my time with it. Nov 19, 2011
Longmont, Colorado
Joshinator   Longmont, Colorado
Also, I think a number 4 works just fine in the crux. You can even bring up another if you want to protect the final 4th class moves to the anchor. Jan 3, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
A #4 Camalot works great. You could place something bigger, but it is really not necessary. Jan 15, 2014
Jeff Limbocker
Boulder, CO
Jeff Limbocker   Boulder, CO
Good route. As others have said, the pro at the crux can be a little wide. Deep in the back of the crack near the top is a tipped out #3, so a #4 would probably work. Having nothing quite that wide, I placed a 0.3 in the sidepull and just decided not to fall. This was a friend's first ever outdoor climb, and it seemed like a good fit for him. Jul 24, 2017
Jeff Montgomery
Jeff Montgomery   Colorado
As someone who has done 100s of 4th Class solos in the Flatirons, but no 5th, and climbed "gym 5.9", I was a bit challenged here on just the upper part. We toproped it. The bottom half is 4th-ish, but the crack in the upper middle of photo #1 is wider than my foot and the bottom drops out. I ended up stepping left and barely catching a left hand on top of the overhang boulder to top out. Oct 27, 2018