Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Oliver and Slater, 1979
Page Views: 3,594 total · 17/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Sep 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

Start right of Teetotaler. Follow the path; you can set the belay on a couple of different flat spots. You can't miss this dihedral. Climb easy terrain (with good pro if you want it) up to the base of the dihedral, perhaps 40 feet. Now head straight up. The pro is good, and you can stem or layback your way up it. I thought the pitch was harder than Grins (to the left, a 5.8), perhaps because the protection is not as easy as Grins. Regardless, this is a fun pitch, well worth doing.

Protection

Standard rack with hexes up to #10. At the top of the dihedral, you can set an anchor (tricam/cams/stoppers). You can also traverse left to anchors, but you'll get rope drag. Finally, you can go all the way to the top. I set an anchor, brought up the 2nd, then traversed to the bolts and rapped on a 60m rope.

Photos