Type: Trad, TR
FA: Dan Hare and Scott Woodruff, 1978.
Page Views: 2,905 total · 13/month
Shared By: Shaun Miller on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This route used to be a 5.10b until a key hold in the crux broke making it a 5.12a. So, essentially the route is a hard 5.9/easy 5.10 with a 5.12 move on the roof section. The route begins in a crack just to the right of a large overhanging roof. Climb the crack to the roof and traverse to the left. Here you will find a critical series of 3-4 moves to conquer the roof. There is a bolt on the roof which you may want to clip on toprope to avoid an undesirable swing (especially if you might be there for awhile). Once you conquer the roof, follow the crack to the top where you will make a zigzag to the left before reaching the anchor.

Protection

The toprope requires a class 4-5 downclimb from the top of the wall, you'll need some gear and a sling. The top is best accessed via a hike up the left side of the crag. You can rope up the route without the downclimb, but I do not recommend it due to rope wear.

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