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Routes in Happy Hour Crag

Are We Not Men T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Are We Not Robots T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Aliens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bad Sneakers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bent Faith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Spit, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruel Shoes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementia T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Race, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grins T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Off T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I, Robot T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Call T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Laugh T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Side T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Malign T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightcap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perched-Pillar Pile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rush Hour T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seein' Double TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skid Row T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Teetotaler T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tipsey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twofers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Bypass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Gully T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Dave Rice and Erik Johnson, 1988, retrobolted by Ray Snead, Rick Leitner, and Kent Lugbill
Page Views: 3,325 total, 17/month
Shared By: George Bell on Aug 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Rossiter calls this route "Thrill of the Chaise", but "Cheers" seems slightly more in line with the crag "naming conventions" (if there is such a thing).

Begin as for Dementia, but move right into a big, easy left facing corner (I remember going a few feet right of the line shown in the photo here).

From the left-facing corner, clip a bolt on the face to the left (this is a bit of a stretch). I find the crux is getting onto this face. Once on, climb straight up past another bolt to the top. You can place wired stoppers above the last bolt. Rossiter's topo has a two bolt anchor but I do not remember one in 1998. These would make toproping Cheers convenient.

Protection

Light rack to 2". This is not a sport route.
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10a
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10a
Reachy. Good TR. Jul 19, 2011
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Pretty disappointing to hear the horn was added. Totally changes the route and gives you a huge rest in the midst of a nice sequence. I'll try it next time without the modification. Nov 17, 2009
I'm surprised to hear that horn was added. A great project for next time. Be prepared to place gear this is not a sport route. Jun 14, 2009
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a
I have no idea what this horn is that everyone is talking about. I found the last few moves to be the crux, but then I got into the layback and it went really easily. You can sew up the last layback with a blue and yellow tcu if you like. A stopper would also work there. May 15, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Thought this was a wee bit harder than easy 5.10 to onsight, but seemed pretty easy a second time on TR once you knew the holds. I placed some mid-sized nuts down low and a #6 near the top...probably about a green Alien size pod. The horn did make it a lot easier. Mar 15, 2008
Matt Burns  
 
A #7 BD stopper fits quite nicely in a small crack above the horn to provide some protection above the second bolt. Jan 10, 2004
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
This route has seem some alteration. I climbed this route for the first time in 1998. I remember the finish through the layback to be committing. It was an exciting route and my favorite on Happy Hour. I warm up here on the way to Security Risk a lot. I went back in 2000 or 2001 I cannot remember and someone had carved a small horn in the rock before the finishing layback moves. I could now throw a sling around the horn and protect the moves. It looked like someone brought a grinder up there and ground the horn down. This should be placed on the modified route list. Sep 9, 2003
I thought above the second bolt was the crux. There is a bomber jug out right, but I couldn't really reach it, so slapped sloper and pulled hard. A green/yellow offset Alien provides comfort in the pod area. Committing layback to finish. Sep 26, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
From the anchors you can also TR the right hand side of the arete directly to the left of this. This is essentially the outter edge of dimentia. It goes solid 5.11 with a single move to the right escaping the arete before returning to it just after. Climb from the top of the arete to the bolts. There would be no protection on lead.

Without this escape move, the route might be 5.11+. May 14, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
There most certainly is the 2 bolt anchor just up and above the top-out of the climb, below the actual top of the cliff. This route is quite nice, as most of the others at Happy Hour. Reaching the bolt is a bit of a stretch as indicated but the climbing can be eased by backing down and then getting just below and left of the bolt and following this line, I would say perhaps 10a this way 10b straight up and right of the bolt, as there is a funky foot match and small crimps to pull on. 2 stars. Nov 14, 2001