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Routes in Happy Hour Crag

Are We Not Men T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Are We Not Robots T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Aliens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Bad Sneakers TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bent Faith T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Spit, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruel Shoes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementia T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Race, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grins T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Off T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I, Robot T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Call T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Laugh T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Side T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Malign T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightcap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perched-Pillar Pile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rush Hour T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seein' Double TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skid Row T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Teetotaler T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tipsey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twofers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Bypass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twofers Gully T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Kurt Gray and Larry Shubarth, 1979
Page Views: 5,109 total, 25/month
Shared By: Shaun Miller on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Last Call starts in the crack just to the right of Rush Hour (5.12a) and avoids its overhanging section. Climb the crack until you encounter a slight overhang a third of the way up. Here you need to traverse to the left where you will climb the upper portion of Rush Hour. The traverse is the crux of the move. This route provides a good alternative for those who are unable to negotiate the crux of Rush Hour.

Protection

The toprope requires a class 4-5 down climb from the top of the wall, you'll need some gear and a sling. The top is best accessed via a hike up the left side of the crag. You can rope up the route without the down climb, but I do not recommend it due to rope wear.
There are several variations to this line that possibly make it even better. 1) Start as for Rush Hour and move right around the small roof to join the original line: awkward but interesting and well-protected 5.9+/5.10-. 2) After the normal crux bulge, continue straight up a short thin corner instead of angling left (short tricky crux, well-protected with small wires). This takes you almost to the top of Dementia's corner. Now head up and a little left through steep ground to rejoin the usual route just below the top. Combining variations 1 and 2 with the usual crux makes for a very direct and sustained line, and certainly one of the best low 5.10 pitches in the canyon. 3) Dave Goldstein showed me a fun linkup of Last Call to Dementia: Climb through the normal crux of Last Call, step up and place a 4 (or maybe 3.5) cam in a horizontal, then traverse right (fun face climbing) to the bottom of Dementia's crux corner. Continue to the top. Another great low 5.10 pitch. Nov 12, 2017
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
  5.9+
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
  5.9+
I also found this to be noticeably more difficult than Dementia, some of the moves are fairly awkward. No move is harder than 5.9, but very few are any easier. Super sustained at the grade.... So call it 9+. Apr 4, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+
There are bolts above this climb, probably for Rush Hour, and they look safer to reach from above than the Dementia anchors which are at about the same level. I solo down climbed to the anchor, so I know it is possible. The crux on this is difficult but very short. Aug 29, 2014
Vincent K
Boulder, CO
Vincent K   Boulder, CO
If your second wants to climb it, I'd recommend belaying from the top rather than toproping since the rock is a little sharp in places. There are two bolts with rap rings at the top. Also, don't forget to place gear to keep the rope out of the crack. Aug 21, 2014
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.9+
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.9+
I actually thought this was considerably easier than Dementia. Hard for a 5.9, as you have to place gear while hanging out on the overhanging section, but the hold there is good, and a medium sized slotted nut is quick to place with the left hand. One awkward move in the middle brings you to easier climbing. Walk off is recommended. I think this is the most sustained and best 5.9 at this crag, and may be the best climb at the cliff, it's a toss-up between this and Twofer's for me. I like the sand-bag potential for Twofer's better ;-) . Mar 23, 2009
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10b
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10b
If Dementia is 5.10a, then this is .10b. More physically-intensive then Dementia for sure. Small stoppers and/or big RPs help protect the thin crack before the 2nd roof. It is possible to traverse right at the top and lower off the Dementia anchors with a 60m rope. However, if you do this make sure to use a long sling on any gear placed after the second roof. Great route! Oct 30, 2006
Jason Shatek
  5.9
Jason Shatek  
  5.9
Remember those 5.9 overhangs in the gym that you thought didn't exist outside? There is nothing slight about the overhang IMHO. A fantastic climb at the grade with plentiful pro; albeit a little tricky to place going around the roof. This was an awesome climb, I can't wait to do it again! Jan 2, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Along with Dementia, the best route on Happy Hour. Sustained, interesting climbing throughout with a burly layback crux past the roof.

Set up a gear anchor to belay, then traverse right and rap from the bolts atop Cheers (aka Thrill of the Chaise) to get down. Oct 25, 2003
This route is the best on the cliff...really spectacular and 10 times better than Dementia. The crux is definitely getting over the chimney roof, then there is some more hard laybacking up above. This climb is probably a sandbag, but the protection is excellent. Sep 25, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
I thought this route was almost as good as Dementia (which I think is the best pitch in the canyon) and as good as any other route at Happy Hour. Felt stiff for 5.9 (pumpy!) but the gear is pretty good, albeit a little awkward in places. Surprising this route is star-less in Rossiter's guide. The anchor on top can be set with #1 to #4 Camalots; I used a #1, #3 and #3.5. Jun 26, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Really fun, and kinda hard at it's grade for this cliff. May 22, 2002