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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Joe Pontiac T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Alec Sharp, Richard Carey
Page Views: 8,956 total, 45/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is one of Boulder Canyon's longest and finest crack climbs, a shorter, steeper version of Country Club Crack without the annoying mantle at the bottom. It is on the smooth buttress right (west) of the gully which splits Bell Buttress in two, about 100 feet past Cosmosis along the ledge system.

Begin just right of Epiphany. Step up over a small roof, clip a bolt and move past poor holds. Move right under the lip of the hanging roof (be sure to arrange protection before you step out right), crank a burly move to a finger lock, then race the pump clock up the perfect layback/crack above. A final thin seam takes you to a nice belay ledge with double bolts. 20 meter pitch.

A direct finish (Cameron's Finish 5.12 s/vs, rehearsed on toprope) steps right from the top of the crack onto the slabby headwall and climbs up an ever-diminishing seam to a butt-clenching exit crux. Bring two #0 TCUs to protect low in the seam.

Protection

Bring a set of medium stoppers and double TCUs and cams up to #2 Camalot size, as well as small TCUs or RPs for the exit crack.
Corey Flynn   USA
A "feel good" 12a, more like hard 11. I did this when I was 19, and I did it yesterday. Significantly easier than any 12- I've been on in Edo, Vedauwoo, or Yosemite. Relative graded routes in BoCan don't count, because people are light when they grade there unless we're talking about Never a Dull Moment. Oct 9, 2015
Andrew Cossette
Denver, Co
Andrew Cossette   Denver, Co
Had to bail because of rain today. The nut about 1/2 way up is not fixed. I'll be back to finish the route and get it down on Friday 17th. Thanks. May 11, 2013
This thread would be a great study of climber psychology. One guy says the gear seems pretty good. Another says he pulled it all and decked. Another says the one who decked must have had a bad belayer because he pulled all the gear and didn't deck. Another credits the climbing gods. Another says it's easy for the grade. Classic!

P.S. - If you're tall enough, and don't fill your jams with cams, you can place a really good nut up high before doing the crux and have a bombproof TR through the sketchy bit. Nov 9, 2011
slim

  5.12a PG13
slim    
  5.12a PG13
definitely one of the best gear routes in the canyon. with minor shenanigans and careful gear placement this is a reasonable lead. great crux movement down low, and fun climbing in the 10 range above add up to a great route. i could see 11d or 12a either way, without too much argument. i actually thought this one was quite a bit easier than 'thunderdome' and substantially easier than 'the spoils'. Aug 24, 2009
David A. Turner
  5.12a PG13
David A. Turner  
  5.12a PG13
Low in its grade. Sep 27, 2007
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.12a R
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.12a R
The climbing gods must have been smiling on me today. What an amazing line. Yes, Try to place good gear before committing to the crux. It's a bit heady up there.

One of the best BC has to offer. Sep 9, 2006
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.12a R
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.12a R
Great line with a slight emphasis on power. I'll forgo the blow by blow gear beta, but suffice to say, if you don't properly sew up the low crux gear can rip and you will crater. On a fall from the lower roof crux two weeks ago I pulled two cams and decked from 35'. Be careful and make sure your gear is totally dialed. Sep 7, 2006
Fremont Shields
  5.11d
Fremont Shields  
  5.11d
This is such a good route. As long as you're careful getting to that first clip, the rest of the route protects beautifully. A 1-1/2 Friend with a looong sling on the left protects the move out to the roof, then a 2 Friend just over the lip is bomber for the next few moves. I tried a .75 Camalot and a 1 Camalot both just above the roof and neither one fit as nicely as the 2 Friend -- where I placed it also left room for the one, good, handjam. Milk the pod-rest above the roof, then get psyched and punch it!

I think the route is .11d because of two reasons, 1.) that's what it was rated in an earlier guide, pre-sport grade inflation, and 2.) I've never climbed a .12 before, or since )-: and I was able to do this route with some strategy - definitely not the first try. Aug 30, 2004
Steve Annecone
boulder
 
Steve Annecone   boulder
 
This route is awesome and high quality. Being a real crack and very sustained, it's uncharacteristic of the Boulder area. I think the "s" refers to the start, where you need to do some 5.10 climbing with bad ground fall potential before getting to the first pro (a bolt) about 20 feet up or so. But the pro from there, although pumpy to place, seems pretty good. May 3, 2004