Type: Trad
FA: Alec Sharp, Richard Carey
Page Views: 9,742 total · 43/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This is one of Boulder Canyon's longest and finest crack climbs, a shorter, steeper version of Country Club Crack without the annoying mantle at the bottom. It is on the smooth buttress right (west) of the gully which splits Bell Buttress in two, about 100 feet past Cosmosis along the ledge system.

Begin just right of Epiphany. Step up over a small roof, clip a bolt and move past poor holds. Move right under the lip of the hanging roof (be sure to arrange protection before you step out right), crank a burly move to a finger lock, then race the pump clock up the perfect layback/crack above. A final thin seam takes you to a nice belay ledge with double bolts. 20 meter pitch.

A direct finish (Cameron's Finish 5.12 s/vs, rehearsed on toprope) steps right from the top of the crack onto the slabby headwall and climbs up an ever-diminishing seam to a butt-clenching exit crux. Bring two #0 TCUs to protect low in the seam.

Protection

Bring a set of medium stoppers and double TCUs and cams up to #2 Camalot size, as well as small TCUs or RPs for the exit crack.

Photos