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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Joe Pontiac T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Marc Gay & Mark Tarrant, 1986
Page Views: 1,181 total, 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 19, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is described in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook and noted in his excellent topos on p.183 & in Boulder Climbs North on p. 119. Its depicted 2 bolts has led to some consternation by those seeking to just climb until you see them...as we did on our first run up Cosmosis, years ago. So, this entry is listed for clarification & warning. It's best to TR the pitch. Don't expect a soft 10a either. Funky rock. Sketchy, if any, gear. Maybe Dan was pretty smart....

Location

This is the climb on the arete near the 3rd pitch of Cosmosis near the top of Bell Buttress.

Protection

No bolts. RPs and TCUs, I've heard, hmmm. TR for mortals like me.

Photos

I'm trying to figure out where this route goes. I posted a picture above of this region of the wall, that I'm hoping someone will copy and draw a line on. The comments above clarify that Rossiter (and Bob D) got the info wrong about the two bolts, but I'm wondering if they at least have the route drawn in the right place.

Does it go up the right side of the arete on slopers, or is it on the steeper ground left of the arete? Aug 22, 2011
Mark,

OBJECTION, OBJECTION!! My partner and I sought this route (The Route That Dan Missed) for the exact qualities bolts would extinguish, including "connect the dot". Not all routes are for all people. Puhhhlease leave it as-is! What does Marc say about the retro-bolt idea? He'd probably want to remove any fixed RPs (if any exist)!

The route's name and significance have come to represent a poignant reminder of old-school climbing that stands, proud and comfortable, in sharp contrast to the numerous bolted routes in Boulder Canyon.

Give us the story; head-point or ground-up? Hats-off to the first one up this stretch of rock. Apr 17, 2002
My friend Marc Gay and I did the FA of "The Route That Dan Missed" a long time ago (late '80s?). Of course, there are no bolts on it, although the guide shows bolts. It is 5.10 R+. There is quite a lot of unprotected 5.9 above the initial crux. I've thought of adding bolts recently and certainly wouldn't mind seeing it made safer. If memory serves, it is a good pitch that makes a nice finish to Cosmosis. If there are no objections, I will try to find the time to retro-bolt it, or I'll consider it open to anyone else so inclined. Apr 16, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10 R
I did the "Route That Dan Missed" arete to the left and concur that the route is NOT bolted and is R/X and has some (*gulp*) questionable holds.

The aforementioned variation is somewhat dangerous and has a bit of objective hazard. This would be an unwise lead for a climber who is not very solid on 5.10 (as in, couldn't skip a few questionable holds). Being up there in a state of fear/panic would be bad news all around.

That said, I wouldn't change it. Apr 16, 2002
"The beautiful bolted arete". Yeah, right. Sorta' oxymoronic, eh? Apr 15, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Beware about a cool looking variation to the last pitch of Cosmosis, called in Rossiter "The Route that Dan Missed". Despite what Rossiter's topo would lead one to believe, THERE ARE NO BOLTS on this arete variation, making it 5.10R/X. Anybody know the history on this? My info is from a few years ago, so it's possible the bolts are there now, but check for them before launching blindly into the lead. Jun 11, 2001