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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Joe Pontiac T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: M. Tarrant, R. Wright, 2003/2004
Page Views: 182 total, 1/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Nov 5, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This 2 pitch, north-facing route starts on the left side of Bell Buttress just after you start up the ramp that leads to the main section of the cliff (about 50' before Hound Dog). Belay inside some large flakes, well-stuck into the ground. Look for a pine tree about 30' up and left of the trail.

Pitch 1: 5.9, 160', 12 bolts, med. cams, 3 bolt anchor. This long, mixed pitch climbs a lichenous, mossy slab past 7 bolts and then crosses a corner where two natural placements can be had. The remainder is bolted. There are carpets of thick, pretty, green moss, most of which were left in place--only crucial holds were brushed--climb gently through these sections.

P2: 5.11b/c, 40', 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. A short pitch that packs a sturdy punch. Move up and left to climb the vertical arete and face. Contend with all manner of weirdness at bolt 2 (.11a/b), and reach the crux at bolt 4. This pitch features edges and several interesting pockets on good rock.

Descent: Lower off the upper pitch back to the belay, then rap twice to the ground. Rap #1: 50' down the slab to bolts in a V-slot about 10' right (west) of the first pitch. Rap #2: 80' to the ground.

The first pitch leads to the base of The Pitts (.11b)--a good, steep, trad crack. This gives you another pitch to climb while you're up there, making the outing more worthwhile.

Protection

About 15 draws + small and medium cams.

Photos

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
The hornet nest is gone. The poor bolting on P2 still remains. The 1st bolt is in a weird spot based on where the anchors are located. You will cross load your biner, so don't fall before clipping the second bolt. May 24, 2014
We tried to climb this route on Sunday, August 4th 2013, but there is a grapefruit-sized hornet's nest just after the pillar on the first pitch that we couldn't climb around. My partner was stung four times. Watch out! Aug 6, 2013
Nick Wilder
The Bubble
 
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
 
Mossy. Licheny. Rotten rock. But kind of good, if you're in an adventurous mood! I broke a very large rock, took a good fall, and luckily didn't hurt anyone when the microwave-size block hit the trail below. Can get down in two raps. Second is tucked in and hard to see. Jul 10, 2011