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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Joe Pontiac T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chuck Fitch, Alec Sharp, Richard Carey
Page Views: 1,704 total, 15/month
Shared By: adam brink on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

While Epiphany Direct already describes the original Epiphany a bit, the routes is good enough that it deserves its own description.

Start 10 feet downhill and to the left of Arms Bazaar. You will see a bolt about 15 feet off the ground. Don't blow it getting to the bolt. You can place a small cam before the bolt if you wish. Once on the ledge above, clip the anchor with a long sling and set off into the slabby face and cracks above. There is one small nest of gear about 20 feet off the ledge (once again, don't blow it getting there!). 10 or 15 feet above that you will get another nest of really good nuts and cams and then punch it for the finishing thin crack on Arms Bazaar.

This is an excellent, long pitch with quite a bit of thoughtful climbing and a hard crux.

Location

This is ten feet to the left of Arms Bazaar.

Protection

2 bolts and some very spaced out small gear. Bolted anchor.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11+ PG13
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11+ PG13
Epiphany is a prime example of an excellent gear-protected route that would have otherwise been a mediocre sport route if rap bolted to Boulder Canyon standards. The rock quality is excellent, and the gear is just where you need it and nowhere else. The hard moves are well-protected by small gear, and the easy moves require confidence and commitment.

There are several other quality routes in the canyon that could have been gear routes or trad routes with minimal bolts but were reduced to mediocrity by placing bolts next to good gear placements or by over-bolting in general. This is not one of them, thanks to the FAs.

If you don't want to bring the whole rack:

I didn't use anything larger than a purple-blue offset Mastercam, although you could place a blue-yellow offset Mastercam down low. I recommend bringing the smallest offset nut, a couple tiny stoppers, at least a small RP or two, and two purple Mastercams. All of the gear placements are solid. May 25, 2017
Scott Bennett  
5.11+
Agree that this is a fine pitch, one that I overlooked on my first few visits to this crag (the best crag in Boulder Canyon?)

I thought the climbing was consistently thought provoking, up to a great rest, and then a full-on crux. Bonus points for finishing on the fun finger crack shared with Arms Bazaar.

As for pro, I felt adequately protected on all the 5.10 and above sections. Not R, but bring RPs, and don't botch the crux gear.

-Scott Oct 22, 2010
slim

  5.11c PG13
slim    
  5.11c PG13
This is a really nice route, with good climbing on good rock. Not really R, but not really Fisher-Price either. Split the difference and call it PG-13, with good gear available but involving a bit of work. Consistent climbing in the 10-ish range with a brief crux. Sep 20, 2009