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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headwall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Joe Pontiac T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dan Hare and Moe Hershoff, 1999
Page Views: 2,057 total · 12/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on May 15, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This corner left of Epiphany is nicer and cleaner than it looks. Start just left of Arms Bazaar at the shared start for Epiphany. Work through the steep moves down low, clip the bolt, and head up into a groove. Easy climbing past a two bolt anchor (not sure why its there?) takes you to the base of the flake and dihedral system. Climb the crack with good jams and lieback moves, past the upper crux near the top. The hardest climbing is near the ground by the first bolt, but a section of 10+ or 11- exists near the top of the crack system. The protection is solid throughout.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A bolt protects the initial (crux) section, a 2 bolt anchor can be clipped above that, then all natural gear to the 2 bolt anchor on top. Medium and large nuts, camming devices (1 each) from 1/2-inch to a #3 Camalot.

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slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
This is a really nice route. Well protected, long, with a second crux near the top. The only detraction is a little bid of bird crap and a bit of lichen. There is a blocky section midway up, but it is easy to work around it. I thought this was one of the better gear lines in the canyon. Aug 24, 2009
Northwest Corner   Bend
 
Surprisingly good and easily overlooked. I never even really noticed it before. D'Antonio's new guidebook doesn't have this route listed and shows it on the topo as Epiphany Variation, but after reading the route description for that on MP (called Epiphany Direct) that route is obviously over to the right, and strays off of Epiphany, as you would expect. Aug 26, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
After a few years of additional traffic, the bird doo and lichen is pretty much gone and the route is cleaner. Oct 24, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11a
This route is actually pretty good and takes a pretty distinct line. Good job to the FA crew on this one. I think the route's crux is a legitimate Bocan 11a and is also pretty height dependent. My girlfriend had difficulties through the crux because of her height or lack thereof. The crux face climbing is a bit devious. The upper dihedral is excellent 5.8ish climbing to a really great, mid-10 crux. All in all, this is a great gear lead and would serve as a great warm up for Arms Bizaar, The Spoils, etc. Also a #4 Camalot can be placed on route in a wider section about half-way up. Dec 2, 2012

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