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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Headwall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Joe Pontiac T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft |
| FA: | ??? |
| Page Views: | 179 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Rich Farnham on Aug 22, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: all Boulder Canyon closures have been lifted!
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
This route isn't brand new (I've seen the bolts here for a few years at least) but isn't in any guidebook I own. It provides a better way to get to the good climbing on the North Face route (avoiding the low-angle 5.7 bush-filled corner).
The route starts from the same bench as Hound Dog. Scramble up and left (5.0) on blocky ground to the base of a slightly less than vertical face with several thin cracks. You encounter a bolt as soon as you arrive on the ledge. It doesn't protect much -- perhaps the intention was to start the route here, making this a belay bolt. Regardless, head up the thin cracks with a mix of face moves and fingerlocks. It is possible to stem off the blocky wall left of the face, which drops the grade significantly. After ~30' the cracks pinch off, and two bolts pull you right, onto the face (10a).
The route merges with the North Face after these two bolts, at a small ledge. There is a 2-bolt lowering anchor here, but you should just clip it and keep going up. The next ~35' of North Face is fun crack climbing with another spot of 10a.
The next ledge has a similar 2-bolt lowering anchor. I lowered from here, all the way to the ground. My 60m rope was barely long enough to do this -- tie a knot in the end!
I stemmed to the left wall a few times the first time up this route, making the cracks feel about 5.9. On a second lap, I tried sticking to the main face, and felt it upped the grade to solid 5.10, particularly when you consider hanging out to place the gear. I actually think it is a better climb if you do this. I'll leave it at 10a -- the difficulty of the face moves -- but recommend avoiding the left wall as much as possible without it being contrived.
The route starts from the same bench as Hound Dog. Scramble up and left (5.0) on blocky ground to the base of a slightly less than vertical face with several thin cracks. You encounter a bolt as soon as you arrive on the ledge. It doesn't protect much -- perhaps the intention was to start the route here, making this a belay bolt. Regardless, head up the thin cracks with a mix of face moves and fingerlocks. It is possible to stem off the blocky wall left of the face, which drops the grade significantly. After ~30' the cracks pinch off, and two bolts pull you right, onto the face (10a).
The route merges with the North Face after these two bolts, at a small ledge. There is a 2-bolt lowering anchor here, but you should just clip it and keep going up. The next ~35' of North Face is fun crack climbing with another spot of 10a.
The next ledge has a similar 2-bolt lowering anchor. I lowered from here, all the way to the ground. My 60m rope was barely long enough to do this -- tie a knot in the end!
I stemmed to the left wall a few times the first time up this route, making the cracks feel about 5.9. On a second lap, I tried sticking to the main face, and felt it upped the grade to solid 5.10, particularly when you consider hanging out to place the gear. I actually think it is a better climb if you do this. I'll leave it at 10a -- the difficulty of the face moves -- but recommend avoiding the left wall as much as possible without it being contrived.
Protection
"Standard rack", but I don't recall placing anything bigger than a red Camalot (including the finish on North Face). Mostly, the route ate up stoppers and finger-sized cams.
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