Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Larry & Roger Dalke
Page Views: 300 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bruce Pech on Jun 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

If you're crossing the creek to climb Hound Dog, pack some trad gear for a taste of "Dalke 5.9."

The North Face begins at the Hound Dog belay and follows an unfortunately brushy, right-facing corner left to a pedestal facing an alcove. Climb a thin, clean crack up and out of the alcove to a face and a second alcove. Jamming and stemming through the second alcove is the crux. Belay on the ledge above. Either climb another short crack and finish on the second pitch of Cosmosis or traverse north along the ledge, down-climb insecure and exposed rock (belay advised) to the anchors on Freaks on a Leash, and rap back to the base of the route. SR. Save #6-9 Stoppers and small cams for the thin crack through the two alcoves.

The North Face was rated 5.9 in the first edition of "High Over Boulder." Sport climbers may find it a little stiff for its currrent .10a rating.

Protection

#5 RP - #2.5 Friend. Save #6-9 Stoppers and/or small cams for the upper crack.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Rack to a #3 Camalot. Nov 20, 2007
Keith Leary
Broomfield, CO
 
Keith Leary   Broomfield, CO
 
The thin crack is very good. I didn't do the Unknown 5.10.a, but it looks like doing the unknown 5.10a bolts to the start of the crack would make this a very vice pitch. Aug 2, 2012