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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Joe Pontiac T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | R. Briggs, R. Candelaria, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 1,284 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Tarrant on Feb 20, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: all Boulder Canyon closures have been lifted!
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
The Pitts is an overhanging hand crack about 200' off the ground on the left side of the crag--left of the North Face Route. This good climb is hardly ever done due to the requisite approach pitches; the most hideous in Boulder Canyon. The horrible approach gully can now be avoided by climbing P1 of Bell Air.
Pitch 1: 5.9, 160', 12 bolts, med. cams, 3 bolt anchor. Unless you want to suffer through the original gully pitches (negative 3 on a 3 star scale), you should approach The Pitts via Bell Air (see description).
P2: 5.11b, 75', units to 3", 2 bolt anchor. Climb into a short corner then up the steep hand crack to the top. Carefully protect the overhanging crack to start (units, 1.5 Friend), then move right, up a slab for 8'. Make a committing swing left on an obvious horn into the main crack where you'll get solid pro the rest of the way. Though the pitch isn't very long, it's one of the better cracks in Boulder Canyon.
Descent: Walk off the top or return to the belay anchor below the last pitch, then rap twice to the ground. Rap #1: 50' down the slab to bolts in a V-slot about 10' right (west) of P1. Rap #2: 80' to the ground.
Hopefully this pitch will get done more now that the approach has improved and you don't have to walk off the top. You might as well do P2 of Bell Air while you're up there.
Pitch 1: 5.9, 160', 12 bolts, med. cams, 3 bolt anchor. Unless you want to suffer through the original gully pitches (negative 3 on a 3 star scale), you should approach The Pitts via Bell Air (see description).
P2: 5.11b, 75', units to 3", 2 bolt anchor. Climb into a short corner then up the steep hand crack to the top. Carefully protect the overhanging crack to start (units, 1.5 Friend), then move right, up a slab for 8'. Make a committing swing left on an obvious horn into the main crack where you'll get solid pro the rest of the way. Though the pitch isn't very long, it's one of the better cracks in Boulder Canyon.
Descent: Walk off the top or return to the belay anchor below the last pitch, then rap twice to the ground. Rap #1: 50' down the slab to bolts in a V-slot about 10' right (west) of P1. Rap #2: 80' to the ground.
Hopefully this pitch will get done more now that the approach has improved and you don't have to walk off the top. You might as well do P2 of Bell Air while you're up there.
I'll post a few pictures of the route, but this is a hard route to photograph. The pictures distort what the climbing is all about. This is an overhanging, right-leaning crack that involves gymnastic climbing (i.e. not a plug-and-chug steep handcrack). The movement reminded me of Death and Transfiguration, albeit much shorter.
The pro is a little strange until you are established in the crack, but if you look around you can keep it safe. I was very happy to have a red metolius TCU (1.5 Fr. size) to place in a small pocket at the start of the bulge. Doubles on .75-2 Camalots were nice.
It's not obvious what to do when the main crack peters out. Another crack angles right, or it looks like you can rock left onto the slab. I went right and found great climbing. Moving right was one of the cruxes of the route, but it felt like this is where the route goes. The slab would go, but would probably be runout, and looked covered in lichen.
2 rap bolts at the top (i.e. no rings). This would be a hard route to set a TR on without a lot of directionals.
I cannot comprehend soloing this route. Bad-ass. Sep 6, 2009