Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: S. Ritchie, S. Reynolds, R. Leitner, K. Miller, & M. Rolofson, Aug. 16, 2000
Page Views: 1,068 total · 11/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Sep 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a varied and interesting route. It is not the best in the area, but it is well worth doing if it's crowded. It is in the shade all day long.

Start with a hard bouldery problem on sharp rock up to the first bolt, and continue on more sharp holds straight up the second bolt (sustained crux until this point).

Grab a nice, big jug left of the third bolt, then work back right to the arete and up much easier climbing to the fourth bolt. There is a long-ish distance between the third and fourth bolt, but the climbing is easy.

At the fourth bolt, choose between a big stem move left (harder, but the bolt is at your head) OR continue up the arete a little, then swing your feet on the face and scamper up.

Pass three more bolts up easier climbing to a two-bolt rap station.

Location

After climbing up the ramp and passing Hound Dog, this is the obvious sport climb on the north side of the next gully.

Protection

7 (6?) bolt and as 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.10d
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.10d
We climbed this route in the rain, perfect situation until you top out on the slab finish. Overall a fairly good route, but if Hound Dog is truly 11a, this route is easier. Aug 13, 2012
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
The crux seemed to be clipping the 2nd bolt. The route would be more enjoyable if this bolt were in a more sensible position. Also, the 2nd to last bolt is 2 feet from a perfectly good #0.5 Camalot placement, so it really shouldn't be there at all. Good climbing on interesting pegmatite, but the bolting could use improvement. Aug 4, 2016
Mark Rolofson
  5.11a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11a
Michalm has a rather unrealistic attitude towards sport climbs. Having to bring one piece gear to place off route & left of the 5th bolt sets up a dangerous situation for many climbers who think the route will be all bolts. I do remember coming quite close to Double Jeopardy's bush infested corner on the upper section of the route. Not a pretty trad line & one to avoid.

Don't assume that the FA team were just a bunch of sport climbers. We all have had extensive trad experience since the 1970s. I love sport routes, & I love trad routes. Having to place one or two pieces of gear on a sport route is not what I'm into.

My guidebook says there are 6 protection bolts, not 7. Jul 14, 2017