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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Joe Pontiac T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: P. Ament and T. Menk (1965) FFA: Ron Matous, 1979
Page Views: 3,384 total · 27/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Sep 12, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The Spoils is located off the big west-facing ledge on Bell, just left of Cosmosis. This was apparently the first 5.12 route sent in Boulder Canyon. It follows a very exposed and overhung line on a beautiful portion of the cliff. It is fairly sustained down low with many technical and sequential moves. The upper half is easier but still sustained and pumpy, with occasionally tricky gear placements.

Start at the big chalked flake and work your way up the finger crack to the overhanging, shallow, left-facing corner system. The climbing is solid 5.11 or harder from the ground until you can get into the hand crack about 20 feet up. I felt the crux was getting into the hand crack at the end of the small corner, but some feel getting stood up on the flake down low may be the crux.

From the top of the corner, continue up the crack system with fun and steep liebacking and jamming (5.10+ or 11), moving left at the fork in the crack. At the top of the crack, you can go left to the anchor on Bell Buster, or go right to the Cosmosis anchor to rappel.

Very high quality rock and moves, with excellent protection! Not necessarily a "serious" route as suggested by some guidebooks... the gear is definitely there if you can hang out to place it.

Protection

I used 4 green Alien-sized pieces, plus one Camalot each from fingers (gray) to hand sized. A gold Camalot is the biggest size needed but a blue Camalot could be placed too if desired. Nuts could be used in spots but are not recommended due to the pumpy nature of the pro stances. At the top of the crack, there's an old pin, and if you move left to the Bell Buster anchor you'll pass (as of 9/07) a cordelette that could be clipped.... It appears to have been set as a directional for top roping.

Photos

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reboot
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reboot   .
Warning: if you are belaying someone on lead, anchor yourself and/or make sure the climber does not skip the bomber #0.5 Camalot placement right off the ledge. Otherwise, if all the gear rips, there is a very good chance both of you will tumble down the ledge. Aug 29, 2013
Adam Brink
on the road
  5.12b
Adam Brink   on the road
  5.12b
This will never be down graded at 12 a/b. A stellar line on perfectly formed granite. If only Boulder Canyon had more like this! Sep 27, 2007