Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Joe Pontiac T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Chip Ruckgraber & Dave Fixx
Page Views: 5,313 total · 26/month
Shared By: slevin on Jul 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


75 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

On the left side of Bell Buttress, at a tree flush against the wall, is this excellent, well-protected route. The climbing is good from bottom to top, with good crimpy edges and a reachy crux somewhere by the 8th bolt. The bolted line which extends up and left from the 8th bolt is "Freak on a Leash" (5.12d, F.A. Steve Sangdahl & Chip Rockgrabber), an exercise in devious, hard-to-figure-out moves. By the way, Hound Dog has been led using gear and clipping only two of the bolts (an exercise in deviousness of a different nature!).

Protection

9 [or 10] draws and something for the anchor.

Photos

One of the best bolted lines in Boulder Canyon of this grade. The climbing is sustained and the crux well protected. The finishing moves are now protected by a bolt and a cam is no longer needed for the 5.9 exit moves. Jul 27, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
I have to concur on this one; steep and relatively sustained, but well protected. Just don't blow the second clip or you'll have the tree stump anal probe experience. Aug 12, 2001
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Awfully easy for 11a. Seems like a good first 5.11 for people. May 22, 2002
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
All comments relevant to the trad/bolted/headpointing/ethics discussion has been moved to the features section of the site (should show up tommorrow). Geez, I leave for a week and all hell breaks loose. :-) Jul 17, 2002
Great climb, but if you are 5'2" or under, it is a very powerful reachy crux on sh*ty holds. Jul 11, 2003
patrick kadel
  5.11a
patrick kadel  
  5.11a
At 5'7", the crux moves felt hard to me, but I think if you are 5'10" or taller, you avoid the difficulties. Maybe for the taller, the crux is located elsewhere as the hold 6" above my crux is very positive. So I'll chime in with 10+/11- and if you can reach 6" more than me I'll guess sustained 10-???

Overall, a nice climb to do while visiting Bell Buttress. Jul 18, 2006
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
The crux is certainly height dependent. My 6' partner cruised it, I found it about right at 11a and I'm 5'8". Our third party member, at 5'2" could not get the crux move clean. May 19, 2009
brain damage
  5.11a/b
brain damage  
  5.11a/b
I had a hell of a time with the crux being 5'5". I moved left to some decent/crimpy side pulls and was able to barely pull the crux that way. I tried going straight up and was about 5" too short. This move is very height dependent. I give it 11a/b. Jun 11, 2011
mtoensing
Boulder
  5.11-
mtoensing   Boulder
  5.11-
They should have named this route something to do with the fact that if you fall at the start, you are going to be violated mercilessly by the tree. It would be a very unpleasant experience, but the climbing is pretty easy at the start. Sep 15, 2011
Great route. Pleasantly large holds for clipping. Mostly 5.10 moves with a few 5.11 cruxes. Jun 20, 2012
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Actually has ten bolts before the anchor. Aug 17, 2016
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.11a
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.11a
Really fun! Almost every move was good, very sustained. One of the best in the canyon at the grade. I'm 6'2", and it still felt 11ish. The pump was formidable. Sep 19, 2016

More About Hound Dog

Printer-Friendly