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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Joe Pontiac T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Pat Ament & Dan Smith
Page Views: 3,711 total, 19/month
Shared By: slevin on Jul 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The Gates of Eden takes the strenuous, overhanging slot immediately left of Double Jeopardy. Nothing to hide here! The climbing is reminicent of the struggle-fests found on just about every multi-pitch 5.9 in Yosemite- this is a good trainer for building confidence in thrashing. The climbing is actually quite good, and well-protected to boot. Getting off the ground is the hard part, but the whole climb provides a sustained workout. Step left to anchors on Grand Inquisitor or Hound Dog, then rappel; or continue up and right to join upper Cosmosis. The aspiring 5.9/5.10- trad climber could devise a bit of a marathon on Bell Buttress by climbing Gates of Eden, Double Jeopardy, Cosmosis, West Crack, and West Face in-a-day. A good trainer for something like the NE Buttress on Higher Cathedral Rock in the Valley...

Protection

Your typical rack-o-gear, up to a 3" cam.

Photos

R Sather
COLORADO
  5.10-
R Sather   COLORADO
  5.10-
Second time on this route and I really enjoyed it... this time. Unique groveling for the front range! As of today there are links on this climbs' anchor that worked well for rappelling. The bolts are spaced about a foot apart and are not ideal for lowering. Sep 17, 2017
rkrum
Colorado or somewhere else
  5.9
rkrum   Colorado or somewhere else
  5.9
Fun route. Not very sustained, but thoroughly enjoyable climbing the whole way to the anchor. No gear larger than a #1 or 2 are needed. Feels 5.9 at worst - there are hand jams everywhere, and I have small hands. Maybe solid 5.10 if you use the heavily chalked, flat, sloping crimp rail and the ticked V14 slab foot chips down low, rather than the bomber constricted hand jams, perfectly good foot jams and gigantic ledge on the left. The bottom looks hard, but there are huge jugs as you go to start what I expected to be overhanging arm bars.

Not much actual OW involved but a great climb nonetheless. Aug 3, 2016
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10b
It's possible, though not mandatory, to place a #4 on this route. After the hard climbing, which is well-protected by singles in the hand size or smaller range, there's a perfect pod for a #4. I still find it odd that the anchor for this is two bolts sans chains or rappel equipment. Anyway, move left to the anchor of Hound Dog to get off this rig. Jun 13, 2016
butlerbt
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Less of a struggle then I expected. A solid knee bar off the ground kept the bottom overhang at 5.10-. Small and varied sizes in the back of the crack allow one to leave the doubles behind. Jun 24, 2013
mike c
golden
  5.9+
mike c   golden
  5.9+
I think 10- is about right. Good start move and then it lets up. No 4s needed .... Sep 3, 2012
This climb is pretty tough. The opening overhang has spaced hand jams with weird feet. However, once you get into the offwidth the climbing becomes easier--but getting into the thing is challenging. Look for the sidepulls on the right side of the chimney Oct 15, 2003
I lugged a #4 (Camalot) and doubles on the hand sizes, and ended up only using a single rack up to a #3. The crack in the back of the flare varies in size enough that you don't need lots of big gear. Rather than going up and way left to the anchors on Hound Dog, it's very easy to place a directional and step right to the anchors at the top of the new bolt route on the arete just right of Double Jeopardy (Yeah, the one with the bolts right next to the crack). If you runner the route well, you can lower off these anchor bolts and belay from the ground. Aug 8, 2003
Gates of Eden is a pretty cool route. I agree that doubles of fist size stuff makes it seem less scary. It's a good alternative if people are on Cosmosis and West Face. Don't be put off by its daunting appearance. Oct 14, 2002
Steve's right about the workout for NE Buttress of HCR in Yosemite, except that you should hike Green Mountain first. NE Butt is the 5.9 climber's Astroman. It is big, burly, and the second half is much harder than the first half. Even 5.11 and above climbers (like Steve) respect this route. May 23, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Gear to a #3 Camalot or #4 Friend sounds good to me. The opening overhang is tough for 10a and somewhat insecure. I remember wishing I had a second fist-sized piece. May 22, 2002