Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Joe Pontiac T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 885 total, 10/month
Shared By: 303scott on Jul 16, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

JP has interesting, steep climbing over a few bulges up to the anchors for Three Minute Hero. It is fairly lichen-covered, but it is a reasonably good warm up for the area. It felt stiff for the grade and may warrant a PG-13 rating- probably not a route for the .7 leader.

Location

This is one route right from Three Minute Hero. The start is from a boulder wedged in the overhang and next to a tree. While it may be possible to start left of the tree, we started right of it. Step up onto good footholds with poor hands. Traverse left with immediate exposure and no pro to gain a right-leaning, flaring crack system. Offset cams are the ticket here. Crank up that crack to a ledge and make a hard-for-the-grade move over/around a second bulge up to a tenuous stance under a third bulge. Climb the crack through the bulge and start looking for the anchors, which are two Metolius rap bolts to the left which are a bit hard to see. Then TR Three Minute Hero. The length is probably 60-80 feet, but the point to which you lower is significantly downhill from where you start, so watch your ends. We used a 70m rope and had plenty of rope left over.

Protection

Gear to two inches, maybe one #3- offset cams were nice to have.

Photos

- No Photos -
George Bracksieck
  5.9 PG13
George Bracksieck  
  5.9 PG13
I led this route yesterday. First I tried right of the tree. I'm 5'8" and have long legs, and yet I was unable — (or unwilling) — to rock on to the high left sloper, while using a crumbling right-hand crimp. Starting to the left of the tree was even harder. So I started in front of the tree and made quick progress — —for a few feet — until I couldn't find another hold, and there was no pro.

The rock bulged against my helmet, and resting was difficult. I was already exposed to the ledge falling way below to the left — and the drop-off below the ledge — and was feeling like a treed puma above a pack of barking dogs. Moving down was unthinkable; — I had to move up to find pro. A long reach found a good hold and even more commitment. — I could hear the bounty hunter cocking his rifle. I moved up again and found my first placement: a #3/4 Metolius Offset TCU in a pocket. Long reaches to place a #2/3 Offset TCU and a #7 DMM Offset nut made me feel more secure. More hard cranking over a series of bulges got me to the anchors.

While I agree that most modern Bolted Canyon ratings are soft, I think this route is 5.9. My second, Mike Endicott, who is much stronger than I, volunteered that rating as he arrived at the belay. The rock quality is generally excellent and the moves interesting, so I think this route deserves more stars. Jul 27, 2012