Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Erickson, free solo
Page Views: 1,541 total · 7/month
Shared By: slevin on Jul 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Another 5.9 gear route for shade-seekers, this climb is actually better than it looks. Left of, and around the corner from Cosmosis, is an overhanging corner (The Spoils), and left a bit further is a prominent chimney with two hand cracks forming its margins (a recent bolted line climbs the right wall of the chimney). Brave a bit of initial funk, then jam and stem your way past the bulging chimney. Continue up, then right at a small overlap to a ledge and belay. Proceed up and right on wandering terrain to join upper Cosmosis. It is also possible to reach the anchors atop the first pitch of The Spoils (or the anchors atop Stu's bolt route), by moving right out of the chimney, or you can devise a way to move left to anchors atop Grand Inquisitor (unless my memory is failing me...a possibility, by the way).


Double set wired nuts to 3" cams, or less.


there are bolts next to the cracks near the top of this pitch thanks to Stu Ritchie Aug 27, 2001
These bolts need to be chopped! Sgt. Roly Poly and Sgt. Ritchie should quit spraying bolts near crax. Apr 20, 2002
Sgts. Roly Poly and Ritchie? Since when did those guys get a promotion? I thought they were merely sea-men on the poop deck. Apr 21, 2002
I did this with you Steve. it's not that good. -Fred Knapp Jul 15, 2002
Shawn Shannon
Everett, WA
Shawn Shannon   Everett, WA
I've was a local of the South Platt and seen that area's Bolt Wars... while I wish there was no retrobolting and live for long trad days, I hope all Bolt War veterans head the newish conduct.

Just remove the hangers... it'll do the job... when you start chopping and crowbaring things it's always the rock that loses no matter who is right. Somebody will come back, make a new hole etc... Jan 3, 2003
Anybody know the name/rating of the clip-up route on the face? Felt pretty hard down low. Jul 1, 2004
I climbed the clip-up recently, as well. A half-star route that felt like easy-11 to me. Harder crux than Hound Dog but not as sustained. Jul 2, 2004