Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dale Goddard
Page Views: 5,437 total · 39/month
Shared By: reboot on Jul 26, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Climb the obvious thin crack(s) between Cosmosis and West Crack. Start on the right seam for a few moves, then move left up the main seam. Hug the 2 cracks for a few moves where the route steepens before crossing back to the left crack (crux). Some funky moves through the small dihedral roof get you to the chains.

The route accepts good modern gear. The safety rating is given for the insecure start (& sparse gear) as well as the difficulty of placement through the crux section (potentially long but clean fall).

As for the grade, I'm hesitant to upgrade it...let's just call it old-school 12d.

Protection

An assortment of small-medium stoppers, small cams to #0.75 Camalot and a #2 (or #3) Camalot. Narrow head width cams (TCUs, Aliens) work better for the first couple placements. As of 09/2012, there are chain anchors on top (thanks to Ed). A TR is best set up traversing from West Crack than Cosmosis (the top bit is not easily aid-able w/o hooks).

Photos