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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Freak on a Leash S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Gates of Eden T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Joe Pontiac T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Man in the Boat T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dale Goddard
Page Views: 4,216 total, 37/month
Shared By: reboot on Jul 26, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Climb the obvious thin crack(s) between Cosmosis and West Crack. Start on the right seam for a few moves, then move left up the main seam. Hug the 2 cracks for a few moves where the route steepens before crossing back to the left crack (crux). Some funky moves through the small dihedral roof get you to the chains.

The route accepts good modern gear. The safety rating is given for the insecure start (& sparse gear) as well as the difficulty of placement through the crux section (potentially long but clean fall).

As for the grade, I'm hesitant to upgrade it...let's just call it old-school 12d.

Protection

An assortment of small-medium stoppers, small cams to #0.75 Camalot and a #2 (or #3) Camalot. Narrow head width cams (TCUs, Aliens) work better for the first couple placements. As of 09/2012, there are chain anchors on top (thanks to Ed). A TR is best set up traversing from West Crack than Cosmosis (the top bit is not easily aid-able w/o hooks).

Photos

Corey Flynn   USA
Clean and BOLD. The start wasnt nearly as bad to lead as I initially anticipated, but I lobbed two MEGA whippers off the top prior to the send. Make sure your buddy gives you a soft catch, and the fall isn't too bad. Toprope lap or two is recommended prior to the lead unless you are ballin' hard. Apr 3, 2017
EJM
  5.12d PG13
EJM  
  5.12d PG13
One of the nicest lines in BoCan. Plugging the crux piece makes this thing ultra-solid for the grade. Aug 23, 2014
Christopher Barlow
  5.12d PG13
Christopher Barlow  
  5.12d PG13
Obviously, safety ratings are subjective, too, and are often hypothetical until someone (or several someones) tests it, but to me PG-13 means "safe as long as you maximize pro, but you still might take long falls," which I think describes Beethoven's exactly. That said, there's "not insignificantly difficult" climbing that is only protected by 2 equalized RPs, and below that is the ground. Sure, I believe they would've held, but it did seem kind of heads up. For sure, falling off the actual hard climbing involves air time. It's worth dealing with the gear, though, because this pitch is awesome. Apr 21, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.12d PG13
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.12d PG13
I'd say this barely deserves a PG-13 rating with use of modern gear. Good, if not great, placements every 6-8 feet to protect the engaging 5.11 for the first 30'. A combination of RPs, small stoppers or C3s sew the bottom up pretty well. Upper crux protected well by small cams though a long fall is certainly possible yet safe. Can't wait to redpoint this one! Jul 6, 2013
Ben Sachs
  5.13a
Ben Sachs  
  5.13a
Thanks for the bolted anchor. It needed one. I almost put one in but lost interest. Way to not be lazy! Nov 28, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
If I projected routes, I'd probably give this one a go. But I'm lazy and I don't climb that hard, so I'll settle for getting rejected on it on TR (hmmmph). Well protected crux but pretty hard, & it comes when you are already pumped. Sep 30, 2012
Ben Sachs
  5.13a
Ben Sachs  
  5.13a
Sandbag. Good gear the whole way though (bring RPs for the bottom). Classic moves, stunning line. May 25, 2012
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
 
The bottom part of this route is slabby 5.11 protected by small gear. There's a good rest before the headwall. The crux is pretty awesome movement capped by a big move (static on micro hold, or dyno) to a big hold from which to clip the anchors. What more could a classic route want? Aug 23, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
The bottom part of this takes only sparse small gear from some insecure stances, and it's hard to see the gear to check it without compromising your balance. Jul 27, 2008