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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter, Elaine Chandler, and Mark Rolofson, 1988
Page Views: 1,868 total, 9/month
Shared By: David Benson on Sep 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Begin as for V3, up the left side of the large block between Fin Three and Fin Four. Climb up the crack and follow the crack out left to reach the first bolt. Crux is above the second bolt. Belay from a single bolt anchor at the top and walk off to the north.

The climbing is classic thin Eldo face climbing. Good moves. The crux is pretty short. The climbing could be made more difficult by staying to the right of the bolts (and the obvious holds to the left) but the line is quite fun.

Per Tony B: ...after about 40', the dihedral gets larger on your left side. At that point if you look to the left you will see a line of bolts. Move up and left to these bolts to a 5.11 crux (can be made easier by excessive wandering about on the face) and then though a more sparsely protected 5.9- section to another group of bolts (5.10). Rossiter's old book claims that the route has become more difficult as a few holds "have broken off in the vicinity of the third and fourth bolts" but the route still seems reasonable at its grade, and the clips are not difficult if done from the best stances.

Eds. This is a combination of submissions posted in 2001.

Protection

7 QDs and a few pieces up to 1/2" to protect the lower part of V3.
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
I thought this was a great route, just pray you don't have the Mariah Carey song stuck in your head for the whole pitch. I stayed just right of the 2nd bolt, which turned out to be pretty blank and definitely felt 5.11. The 2nd clip was super desperate for me at 5'7". Nov 16, 2013
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
If you're tall for the upper moves--around 6'--and climb just left of the first two bolts, this is about 10b. Fun climbing, but I was a little annoyed at having to decide whether to climb the obvious rock with holds just left of, and within reach of, the first few bolts, or to climb straight up at the bolts. Jul 7, 2009
D. Shaw  
This pitch is just barely worth doing, for the nice top section. The bottom, where the crux is supposed to be, is contrived: one must force oneself to stay exactly in the bolt line for it to be 5.11b. If you move left and keep hunting for edges, it is maybe 10+, at most. But the top section of bolts is sustained and quite pleasant (10a or 10b). Sep 10, 2007
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
  5.10d
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
  5.10d
I think this route deserves three stars for upward movement and one star for position because it is so easy to reach the 5.7 arete on Emission Control. It also felt quite a bit easier than 11b on the positive thin edges. Jun 29, 2003