Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf]
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 34
votes
Routes in Cadillac Crag
|
[Redacted] S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Black Face, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
|
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
|
|
Escalade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Garbage Pile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: |
Trad, Sport
Fixed Hardware
(8) |
| FA: | Richard and Joyce Rossiter, Elaine Chandler, and Mark Rolofson, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 3,163 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | David Benson on Sep 11, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Begin as for V3, up the left side of the large block between Fin Three and Fin Four. Climb up the crack and follow the crack out left to reach the first bolt. Crux is above the second bolt. Belay from a single bolt anchor at the top and walk off to the north.
The climbing is classic thin Eldo face climbing. Good moves. The crux is pretty short. The climbing could be made more difficult by staying to the right of the bolts (and the obvious holds to the left) but the line is quite fun.
Per Tony B: ...after about 40', the dihedral gets larger on your left side. At that point if you look to the left you will see a line of bolts. Move up and left to these bolts to a 5.11 crux (can be made easier by excessive wandering about on the face) and then though a more sparsely protected 5.9- section to another group of bolts (5.10). Rossiter's old book claims that the route has become more difficult as a few holds "have broken off in the vicinity of the third and fourth bolts" but the route still seems reasonable at its grade, and the clips are not difficult if done from the best stances.
Eds. This is a combination of submissions posted in 2001.
The climbing is classic thin Eldo face climbing. Good moves. The crux is pretty short. The climbing could be made more difficult by staying to the right of the bolts (and the obvious holds to the left) but the line is quite fun.
Per Tony B: ...after about 40', the dihedral gets larger on your left side. At that point if you look to the left you will see a line of bolts. Move up and left to these bolts to a 5.11 crux (can be made easier by excessive wandering about on the face) and then though a more sparsely protected 5.9- section to another group of bolts (5.10). Rossiter's old book claims that the route has become more difficult as a few holds "have broken off in the vicinity of the third and fourth bolts" but the route still seems reasonable at its grade, and the clips are not difficult if done from the best stances.
Eds. This is a combination of submissions posted in 2001.
5 Comments