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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,376 total, 12/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Nov 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The easiest route to the pleasant summit of Fin One. When combined with Ghetto Cruiser, a two star combo.

Start from a ledge/ramp above the Ghetto Cruiser dihedral on the SW face of Fin One. Both Ghetto Cruiser and Easy Street can be combined and is recommended, but rope drag may be an issue over the roof above the Ghetto Cruiser dihedral. A belay in the wide slot is not recommended. Work your way toward the SW arete via a wide ramp. A small stopper will protect the traverse. Once on the arete, the glory begins as huge heucos lead the way along the blunt arete. It is easy and it is fun. Rap from the two bolt ancher on the flat, sunporch of a summit. It is a two rope rap to the base of the SW face.

Protection

Light rack. (the remnants of your Ghetto Cruiser rack will do)

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
As Michael suggests, combining this with Ghetto Cruiser makes for an enjoyable 160' linkup. I was able to keep the ropedrag to a tolerable level using a double length sling on the traverse (which protects well with a blue TCU). The anchor bolts look okay, but the bolt hangers and sun-bleached tat is in bad shape (9/03). A good service project to the climbing community would be to replace these with 1/2" stainless hangers and eliminate the webbing rat's nest/eyesore.

An alternative to the double-rope rap mentioned is 2 single rope raps. First one takes you to a large tree in between Fins 1 and 2 (the first belay for Ichiban Arete). Second one gets you to the ground. Sep 21, 2003