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Routes in Cadillac Crag
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[Redacted] S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Face, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Escalade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Garbage Pile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport, 180 ft (55 m)
Fixed Hardware
(7) |
| FA: | Richard and Joyce Rossiter |
| Page Views: | 8,124 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Apr 14, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is an excellent pitch; one of the finest face climbs in Eldorado!
Begin in the first gully formed by the two fins on the left when facing the crag. The first bolt is 40' up on the left wall of the gully. The route more or less follows a direct line up the face. Start by climbing up to a left-angling hand traverse 30' up (#3 Camalot) and traverse left on good holds to a stance 20' below the first bolt. Crank up to the first bolt on pretty runout 5.8, and crank out cool less-than-vertical balance and edging moves up to some good holds from which you can clip the second bolt. Crank straight up to a third bolt, and do some judicious route finding to find a fourth bolt 40' above you.
This is not a sport climb; gear is very useful for this next section, perhaps a #0.75 or #1 Camalot will work, otherwise it is a 40' runout with a 5.8 mantle at the end. Clip the fourth bolt and wander up on 10- moves to the base of a flared crack. This crack looks like it takes small Stoppers in some places, however I was out of gear that would fit anything at this point and just traversed left and followed the 5.6 arete to the belay for another 40' runout. The regular route continues up this crack to an obvious bolt, then to the belay. The crack is 9+. This route is fairly safe with the right gear; it wasn't too well bolted though. Expect to run it out a healthy distance on 5.8 climbing.
A double-rope rap off the top brings you to the ground.
Begin in the first gully formed by the two fins on the left when facing the crag. The first bolt is 40' up on the left wall of the gully. The route more or less follows a direct line up the face. Start by climbing up to a left-angling hand traverse 30' up (#3 Camalot) and traverse left on good holds to a stance 20' below the first bolt. Crank up to the first bolt on pretty runout 5.8, and crank out cool less-than-vertical balance and edging moves up to some good holds from which you can clip the second bolt. Crank straight up to a third bolt, and do some judicious route finding to find a fourth bolt 40' above you.
This is not a sport climb; gear is very useful for this next section, perhaps a #0.75 or #1 Camalot will work, otherwise it is a 40' runout with a 5.8 mantle at the end. Clip the fourth bolt and wander up on 10- moves to the base of a flared crack. This crack looks like it takes small Stoppers in some places, however I was out of gear that would fit anything at this point and just traversed left and followed the 5.6 arete to the belay for another 40' runout. The regular route continues up this crack to an obvious bolt, then to the belay. The crack is 9+. This route is fairly safe with the right gear; it wasn't too well bolted though. Expect to run it out a healthy distance on 5.8 climbing.
A double-rope rap off the top brings you to the ground.
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