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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ???, 1977.
Page Views: 833 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The original route on the Fin 1, but has been superseded in popularity by Ghetto Cruiser, which shares 75% of its length, and is slightly easier to climb and protect.

The route starts as for Ghetto Cruiser, but follows the crack to the right of the corner, instead of the corner itself. When the crack becomes wide (crux), Ghetto Cruiser goes left into the corner directly to avoid the difficulty and remains 5.7, but Twistoflex stays on the right crack, tackling a 4-7" crack for some distance before being forced back left at a roof (3-4" pro in a horizontal) to rejoin that route.

One can continue entirely to the top on a 70m rope, and a 60m would probably make it as well.

The belay on the shelf before the end is poor, and the top has a nice stance and 2 fat bolts.

Location

The route starts on the right hand edge of Fin 1, as for Ghetto Cruiser. The route starts in a short and shallow, left-facing corner that rises to become the right-facing open book, S/SE corner.

Protection

A standard rack with at least one 4" or larger piece unless you are fond of runouts. In the OW section, early on, there is a fingercrack back in the left side that will take 0.5-1" cams here and there (best is 0.75") but those run out before the crux and are blind placements that are impossible to inspect. If 5.8 is your limit, you will certainly want at least one old style #4 Camalot of new-style #5. More could be placed of course.
Long slings are also helpful.

Photos

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Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+ PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8+ PG13
A #5 Camalot is great to protect the wide crack. A #6 would fit up high if you really wanted to sew it up. Mar 12, 2011