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Routes in Cadillac Crag
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Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Escalade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Larry Hamilton & Wendell Nuss, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 8,835 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Ben F on Aug 24, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is to the left of the crack on P2 of Gonzo. There are 2 ways to do this route. One way is to start the 2nd pitch of Gonzo and move left where this crack starts. Otherwise, walk left around the corner and uphill from Gonzo and begin on a crack that is just to the left of a wider crack/slot, leading to a tree. Move right before reaching the tree and access the crack via the obvious traverse.
I usually don't get this pumped on a 9, and I suppose that's where it gets the "+". Once you start into this left-leaning crack, plug and chug. This crack is nice and sustained. I couldn't resist the many stopper placements and drained some energy placing them even though they were within a couple feet of good cams. I love bomber stoppers. If this route were longer, I would give it another star.
I usually don't get this pumped on a 9, and I suppose that's where it gets the "+". Once you start into this left-leaning crack, plug and chug. This crack is nice and sustained. I couldn't resist the many stopper placements and drained some energy placing them even though they were within a couple feet of good cams. I love bomber stoppers. If this route were longer, I would give it another star.
Protection
To protect the route, bring nothing larger than a #3 Friend/#2 Camalot and maybe double on a green Alien or Blue Metolius. Good stoppers o' plenty during the business. Use the anchor bolt and tree at the top of Gonzo or set your own with one of the small trees and cracks at the top. The walk-off at the top is obvious.
Around Boulder, CO
My partner lead it and found it difficult to plac the protection due to the right-hand overlap of the crack combined with the fact that it leans left. This may be why stoppers are good, but hard to place without a pump. A 1" cam is the crux pro- one of my cams now has a broken cross bar to prove it (Thanks, Mark). Oct 16, 2001
Boulder, CO
Around Boulder, CO
Touch and Go, The Green Spur, P1 of Yellow Spur, C'est La vie, P1 of Tagger, , etc... those are the yardstick 5.9s in my book, and to what I would compare Deviant. It is tough, and on the hard end of 5.9, but still .9 in my opinion. YMMV.-Tony Bubb Oct 3, 2002
Colorado
Colorado
Boulder
San Francisco
Denver
Colorado
I love this:
Tony Bubb rates it 5.10a after saying "... honest at its grade..." and "..hard end of 5.9, but still .9 in my opinion..."
AND
Jay Eggleston rates it 5.9+ while saying "... one of the easier 9s in Eldo...."
And the funniest part? I agree!! (since 5.9+ is often harder than 5.10a). May 28, 2011
Denver
Around Boulder, CO
Yeah- BUSTED on my part. Just goes to show that you can climb a route a few times and come back with different opinions. The comments were written in 2001/2002. Since that time I've redone the route and adjusted my own opinion and added a 'grade' to the route of 10a. As you may know, the grade rating for routes feature was not even available in 2001/2002 on MP.com...
Anyway, it's a great illustration of how subjective grades are, even to a single person.
Perhaps Jay's comment immediately above is the best rating explanation available anyway. "5.9+"
Rather that realign things here, I will leave them as is for exactly that reason/illustration. Have a good one out there and be safe! May 29, 2011
Colorado
I couldn't agree more.
This route isn't about a single move crux, so momentum, energy, confidence, and how much you've climbed so far that day could certainly make it feel pretty different. Mar 13, 2012