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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Larry Hamilton & Wendell Nuss, 1975
Page Views: 8,020 total, 40/month
Shared By: Ben F on Aug 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is to the left of the crack on P2 of Gonzo. There are 2 ways to do this route. One way is to start the 2nd pitch of Gonzo and move left where this crack starts. Otherwise, walk left around the corner and uphill from Gonzo and begin on a crack that is just to the left of a wider crack/slot, leading to a tree. Move right before reaching the tree and access the crack via the obvious traverse.

I usually don't get this pumped on a 9, and I suppose that's where it gets the "+". Once you start into this left-leaning crack, plug and chug. This crack is nice and sustained. I couldn't resist the many stopper placements and drained some energy placing them even though they were within a couple feet of good cams. I love bomber stoppers. If this route were longer, I would give it another star.

Protection

To protect the route, bring nothing larger than a #3 Friend/#2 Camalot and maybe double on a green Alien or Blue Metolius. Good stoppers o' plenty during the business. Use the anchor bolt and tree at the top of Gonzo or set your own with one of the small trees and cracks at the top. The walk-off at the top is obvious.
Cornelius Jefferson  
  5.9+
The overlap makes this a little more tricky, and the rising nature keeps you off balance but still 5.9 imo. Be quick about dinking in pro. Oct 9, 2012
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.9+
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.9+
Tony, Jay,
I couldn't agree more.
This route isn't about a single move crux, so momentum, energy, confidence, and how much you've climbed so far that day could certainly make it feel pretty different. Mar 13, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Hi Ben,
Yeah- BUSTED on my part. Just goes to show that you can climb a route a few times and come back with different opinions. The comments were written in 2001/2002. Since that time I've redone the route and adjusted my own opinion and added a 'grade' to the route of 10a. As you may know, the grade rating for routes feature was not even available in 2001/2002 on MP.com...
Anyway, it's a great illustration of how subjective grades are, even to a single person.
Perhaps Jay's comment immediately above is the best rating explanation available anyway. "5.9+"
Rather that realign things here, I will leave them as is for exactly that reason/illustration. Have a good one out there and be safe! May 29, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+
Maybe I was having a good day, but it felt 5.9 and way easier than I had anticipated. I am not one to downgrade routes normally. Most Eldo 9's feel difficult! I went with the traditional 9+ rating because I don't want anyone to feel sandbagged. May 28, 2011
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.9+
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.9+
Ahh, Eldo 5.9+.
I love this:
Tony Bubb rates it 5.10a after saying "... honest at its grade..." and "..hard end of 5.9, but still .9 in my opinion..."

AND
Jay Eggleston rates it 5.9+ while saying "... one of the easier 9s in Eldo...."

And the funniest part? I agree!! (since 5.9+ is often harder than 5.10a). May 28, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+
One of the easier 9s in Eldo. There is a great horizontal rail halfway up that provides a great rest. There are holds for the feet throughout the climb if you look for them and have good edging shoes. Very fun and easy to "sew up". Aug 20, 2009
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
The first pitch of Gonzo and Deviant string together quite nicely, about 180 feet I'd say. Jun 10, 2007
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
This was my very first 5.9 lead, and it was simply spectacular!!! For me the crux was the last two thirds of the route because my fore arms were just "PUMPED" . I even took my first lead fall on this one---SAVED by a red Alien---!! The route is very easy to protect and a beautifull straight forward line which is why i chose it as my first 9. Stoppers and small cams are the way to go here I think I placed a 1.5 camalot right before I popped off near the middle but that was the biggest one I plugged. Led V3 after this and felt like I was in "easy heaven"!!! Oct 15, 2003
Kre
Colorado
 
Kre   Colorado
 
I loved this route! We did the first pitch of Gonzo then finished on Deviant. I think this route is very hard (but safe) for the grade - I have done many of the "classic" 5.9's in Eldo and found this to be more continuous and sustained than most routes at the grade. It is short, but feels like a lot of climbing for it's length, one of the most interesting 30 feet of climbing I have done in a while! Enjoy! Oct 6, 2003
An excellent crack climb that is different from the usual Eldo style...it has no feet on the face and only one semi rest--excellent finger locking. Jul 17, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
The grade felt right on to me. Compared to other 5.9's/5.10a's in Eldorado, 5.9+ seems accurate. Quite pumpy throughout with nice finger jams. Jun 23, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Sirens of Titan is softer than a feather pillow, so it's not very fair to use that as a comparison, or almost all of the Eldo 5.9s are 5.10s... It's harder than The Bat and Auburn Lane as well, but that doesn't make it 5.11...those are just super-soft routes (at 5.10d?!??!)

Touch and Go, The Green Spur, P1 of Yellow Spur, C'est La vie, P1 of Tagger, , etc... those are the yardstick 5.9s in my book, and to what I would compare Deviant. It is tough, and on the hard end of 5.9, but still .9 in my opinion. YMMV.-Tony Bubb Oct 3, 2002
Tough for the grade. I found it to be harder than a number of the classic low 10s in the Canyon, and it is miles beyond what should be a comparable route: the 5.9 leaning crack just right of Prince of Darness (called Sirens of Titan, I think). Good fun, but the leaning position and uneven nature of the crack make it a real challenge. Oct 3, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This climb is on the cover of Rossiter's Eldo guide.... Oct 2, 2002
A classic Eldo 9+ that would otherwise be rated 10b were it located just about any where else. Aliens are the call on this route...as you will not want to hang out fiddling with nuts. To bad it does not go on for another 100 feet... Aug 18, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I found the route honest at its grade. Nice rock, nice moves, nice setting. If it were a multi-pitch it would qulify for classic status.

My partner lead it and found it difficult to plac the protection due to the right-hand overlap of the crack combined with the fact that it leans left. This may be why stoppers are good, but hard to place without a pump. A 1" cam is the crux pro- one of my cams now has a broken cross bar to prove it (Thanks, Mark). Oct 16, 2001