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Routes in Cadillac Crag
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[Redacted] S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Face, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Escalade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Garbage Pile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Larry Hamilton & Wendell Nuss, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 12,640 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Aug 24, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is to the left of the crack on P2 of Gonzo. There are 2 ways to do this route. One way is to start the 2nd pitch of Gonzo and move left where this crack starts. Otherwise, walk left around the corner and uphill from Gonzo and begin on a crack that is just to the left of a wider crack/slot, leading to a tree. Move right before reaching the tree and access the crack via the obvious traverse.
I usually don't get this pumped on a 9, and I suppose that's where it gets the "+". Once you start into this left-leaning crack, plug and chug. This crack is nice and sustained. I couldn't resist the many stopper placements and drained some energy placing them even though they were within a couple feet of good cams. I love bomber stoppers. If this route were longer, I would give it another star.
I usually don't get this pumped on a 9, and I suppose that's where it gets the "+". Once you start into this left-leaning crack, plug and chug. This crack is nice and sustained. I couldn't resist the many stopper placements and drained some energy placing them even though they were within a couple feet of good cams. I love bomber stoppers. If this route were longer, I would give it another star.
Protection
To protect the route, bring nothing larger than a #3 Friend/#2 Camalot and maybe double on a green Alien or Blue Metolius. Good stoppers o' plenty during the business. Use the anchor bolt and tree at the top of Gonzo or set your own with one of the small trees and cracks at the top. The walk-off at the top is obvious.
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