Type: Trad
FA: Larry Hamilton & Wendell Nuss, 1975
Page Views: 10,333 total · 44/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Aug 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is to the left of the crack on P2 of Gonzo. There are 2 ways to do this route. One way is to start the 2nd pitch of Gonzo and move left where this crack starts. Otherwise, walk left around the corner and uphill from Gonzo and begin on a crack that is just to the left of a wider crack/slot, leading to a tree. Move right before reaching the tree and access the crack via the obvious traverse.

I usually don't get this pumped on a 9, and I suppose that's where it gets the "+". Once you start into this left-leaning crack, plug and chug. This crack is nice and sustained. I couldn't resist the many stopper placements and drained some energy placing them even though they were within a couple feet of good cams. I love bomber stoppers. If this route were longer, I would give it another star.

Protection

To protect the route, bring nothing larger than a #3 Friend/#2 Camalot and maybe double on a green Alien or Blue Metolius. Good stoppers o' plenty during the business. Use the anchor bolt and tree at the top of Gonzo or set your own with one of the small trees and cracks at the top. The walk-off at the top is obvious.

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