Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Stuberg and Chip Ruckgaber,1981
Page Views: 3,156 total, 16/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Apr 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


38 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The topo shows this route's start as a chimney right of an offwidth crack.... I took the left-leaning, fist and offwidth crack (left of the big messy chimney/flake) that gets bigger, then smaller, then tops out on a large, pointy flake (cool start) and then heads up to a perfect hand crack in the right wall of a ramp/dihedral...stemming and jamming the crack up to a roof with good jams from one crack to another up onto the steep licheny face with good holds just where you need them...a very fun handjamming pitch.

Protection

Small/medium to large cams...some trees and nice cracks at top, careful of lots of loose rock small and big.

Photos

Benten
Denver
 
Benten   Denver
 
I don't know that was a cupped hands crack and I had no three, did the whole thing on one tipped out two. The exit from the slot was awesome and technical. Great line and dont forget to protect your second. Oct 16, 2011
Really fun. Solid jams, a tough roof, and some steep, challenging moves afterwards. Took the crack described above for the start and bouldered through it until the tree. Feb 28, 2009
I think it gets an extra star for the name alone. Apr 21, 2007
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
w/J. Blumberg 3.18.06...there are some weird moves on this climb. Lots of them. It's a good practice route for, well, other weird routes. Standard rack was sufficient. Beward the choss-pile at the belay. Mar 19, 2007
Jayer Chung
  5.8
Jayer Chung  
  5.8
Lots of loose rock undermines what is otherwise a great climb. Bring extra number #1-3 Camalots for the hand crack. Great climb in the fall. Oct 10, 2005
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Err, uh, squeaks by with a star. Sorry. So many better routes in the Eldo area. Apr 30, 2003
I'll second AC comment regarding being short: at 5'3", I thought that going over the roof was particularly difficult. Stemming was not an easy option. That was the crux for me. Apr 13, 2003
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
Wow! Pulling out and over into the crack from the slot is puzzling, and a blast! Having doubles of #3 Camalot was nice. Apr 2, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
1 or perhaps 2 stars, but 3 is a bit optimistic. Mar 17, 2003
Very good climb! The line looks somewhat improbable from below--and intimidating, but it's not bad once youre into it.

Bring an extra hand sized piece and a #3 Camalot for the hand crack--if you're short and not too solid on jamming, the hand crack section will be brutal. But if you're tall you can jam and stem pretty easily for good rests along the slot. The crux felt to be the few moves out of the deep slot where the hand crack jaunts out on to the licheny face above, and finishes into the finger crack. This section [isn't] hard, just a little tricky and the lichen makes it slippery--and I also had a pretty good pump going! Jul 2, 2002