Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Hammond, Dougald MacDonald
Page Views: 1,001 total · 5/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Apr 12, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is just a variation to Auburn Lane, but it turns a half-star route into 1.5 stars, with a second 5.10 crux and more good climbing.

Climb Auburn Lane through its crux finger crack (about 5.10c) and up the fun corner to a roof. The normal route climbs over this roof and ends abrubtly in a chossy gully. To do Auburn Court, crank over a bulge immediately left of the roof via hand jams (5.10a or b), then continue up the sweet hand crack past a tree. Hand traverse to the rright under a block, along a finger crack, to reach the top. This adds about 30-35 feet of high-quality climbing and takes the route right to the summit of Fin III.

By the way, you can do this entire route in one pitch with a 60-meter rope.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack.

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Definitely the best finish to Auburn Lane. Watch for rope drag if linking with Auburn Lane as a single 150' pitch. Apr 28, 2007
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
Two #3 Camalots are useful on this one. Mar 13, 2011
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.10c
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.10c
Fun, I think it goes left at the top block (as shown in the pic). It didn't seem harder than the first pitch of Auburn. May 29, 2011