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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Wunsch, Hritz, Logan, 1973
Page Views: 2,994 total, 16/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Feb 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Jim Erickson called the Highway of Diamonds a "route of untarnished beauty".

For P1, start in the slot between fin one and fin two. The start is a shallow corner leading to a left angling crack that gains the right corner of the obvious large roof. You will pass the bolted line "Land of Ra" on the way. Hike up a moderate crack for 15 feet and belay above the roof in a small stance on the arete.

P2 dodges right for a short way and then cuts back to the arete for truly magnificent position on moderate rock.

Descend North or rap from the anchors on Land of Ra (165 feet). Take a lot of wired stoppers and a full range of cams.

Three stars for a classic piece of Eldorado history, great stone, and the amazing position. It's hard to believe that twenty years has elapsed since I touched this beautiful piece of stone.

Protection

A full trad rack and a 60 m rope.

Photos

dlight
  5.10b R
dlight  
  5.10b R
Brilliant, quite unlike the other face climbs at Cadillac, no bolts to clip! It meanders a bit, double ropes can facilitate combining both pitches and eliminating the hanging belay in the middle. The hardest 5.9 I ever led! May 31, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Great route with continuous climbing on P2 if you go right from the roof. Every other move is significant, every second stance is rest... it never goes away but never exhausts you. Exciting but not lethal. A great first "heads up" lead for a 5.10 climber. Mar 30, 2012
Greg D
Here
Greg D   Here
Had to bail today for various reasons. Lots of booty up there. Help me out if you can. Mar 26, 2012
Patrik
  5.9 PG13
Patrik  
  5.9 PG13
If you are allergic to runouts, pick the right-hand variation on P1 following a small, left-facing corner instead of traversing out left. Doing this, you can clip one bolt on Land of Ra.
If following the suggestion in Rossiter's book about going left to the arete above the roof/bulge on P2, I think this is quite a bit harder than 5.9. Taking a step to the right makes it a 9. Jul 12, 2011
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.9+ X
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.9+ X
Rap off the slings to the tree (full 30m), then a quick ~25m to the ground.

Bring lots of small-med gear if leading as one pitch. Sep 7, 2008
Jordon Griffler
boulder
Jordon Griffler   boulder
I wouldn't agree that the first pitch is VS. About half way through the scary hand traverse, right below the first bolt of Land of Ra, you an get a bomber #3 Camalot in a hole. It's still spicy, and I wouldn't recommend falling, but this is not a death route. Don't let the first pitch scare you and get on this gorgeous line. Jul 5, 2007
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9+ R
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9+ R
4 things:
1-the "runout fun" is not over after your pitch one traverse. P2 has plenty of spice left. This is not a good route for the fledgling .9 leader.
2-I echo the great idea of bringing a 3.5 and 4 for the traverse crack on P1.
3-Bring doubles of red, yellow, green Aliens for building your anchor on the arete, or sm/med. tri-cams.
4-rapelling (with 2 ropes) certainly beats the alternative loose, steep downclimb.

Finally-I pulled an autolocker off 'Land of Ra' on 8/4/06. If you can describe it, it's yours.

PS--Esteban-I'm not much into leather vests and I don't know what tongue baths are, but 'Highway' rocks, nonetheless!! Aug 4, 2006
Brent Roaten
Anchorage, AK
  5.9
Brent Roaten   Anchorage, AK
  5.9
Climbed on 10/9. Great route. I would have to agree that the first pitch is X though it is fairly mellow face climbing. A fall before reaching the secure finger crack would not end well. As for the second pitch, I am not sure what the original line is but skirting to the right seems more in line with a 5.9 rating than going straight up. Oct 15, 2005
Brian Sorden  
 
Another crux comment. I'm sure we cheated the route by moving farther right, to "Land of Ra" and proceeding up and then left to the arete, but the move straight up is 5.10 tricky and a little run out (potential 20 foot whipper.) Having said that, I certainly appreciate the sandbag gifts of our predecessors, it keeps Eldo real and interesting. Sep 25, 2005
I agree with Luke. You have to beware any 9+ rating put up in the 70's. Nobody wanted to give a route a ten and then given a bunch of shit for it. That's my interpretation.9+ is a dubious grade in any climbing area. Aug 20, 2004
Luke Clarke
Golden
Luke Clarke   Golden
Not that this site really needs another rating argument but I think the 9+ rating in Rossiter's guide for this route is a classic Eldo sandbag the hardmen of the 70s bequeathed to us. I was crushed on the crux -- leading and on top rope -- and I have been leading 10b and c in Eldorado. The 10b Ichiban Arete felt much easier than this line, which we intended as a *warm-up.* This is harder 9+ than p1 of Rincon. Mar 8, 2004
I think the guidebook gives this route the dubious 9+ rating. Also I felt like the crux moves were a little run. Feb 4, 2004
Joe Collins  
 
A bit of an unheralded classic. Crux felt a bit stout for 9, and the moves are a bit reachy. First pitch is 5.8 X. Jan 12, 2004
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
I led the fist pitch of this route a couple of days ago and it is great. I would mention the long runout after the hand tranverse left up to the crack. If you're solid on 5.8 it just takes a cool head. But it is a 15-20 foot runout and the last piece is somewhat suspect. Aug 26, 2002