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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,397 total, 7/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is perhaps the best of the 5.11 face climbs on Cadillac. This climb can be easily done in one 200 foot pitch.

Located on the right face of fin 3. Climb the first, and best, pitch of Auburn Lane (10d). Clip the bolts on the face to left of the optional belay cove and confront the crux. More bolt protected, consistently good face climbing takes you towards the top, where a gear starts to be required again.

Rossiter's guide rates this as 5.11c, but there is no section harder than 11b.

Protection

Wires and cams to 4"; quickdraws.
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
Anchor up top - wrap three or four strands of rope around the tip of the summit (tensionless hitch) which gives a high enough point to belay from while seated on the sharp block to climber's right. Not super comfortable but strong and effective. Oct 30, 2016
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
I thought this route was fantastic! I enjoyed it more than Land of Ra. The moves past the first 3 bolts are super thin, technical, and very bouldery. Definitely get on it if you're in the area! Nov 30, 2013
mike c
golden
 
mike c   golden
 
Great climb...did it as one pitch, and it was smooth. Fair as 11b in Eldo...if you relax. I had a harder time with the moves up higher. I found the upper section slightly commiting (5th to 6th) but exciting. Nov 29, 2011
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Another of many mismatches between Rossiter's rating in the text and what it says on the topo. The text says 11d, but the topo shows an 11b crux down low, and an 11a crux higher. Needed a magnifying glass to read the notations on the topo. Nov 9, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Actually, Rossiter's latest Eldo book rates this 5.11d. I'd have to agree that it is easier- and perhaps easier still because yesterday I snapped off the sharp part of the crux hold and it got better. I tend to sacrifice a little strength for security and lean back hard to make my feet stick better- I leaned back on the diagonal crimp and 'pop' now it's a little different. My partner, who normally has to grovel a bit on climbs harder than 5.11b came up it clean without too much struggle, despite hot/humid conditions.

Building a good anchor up top while keeping the rope off of sharp edges is a little problematic, build it to avoid cutting your rope in the event of a fall.

Neat route. P1 breaks charicter from P2, but both are fun. Jul 28, 2003