Type: Trad, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Greg Davis, Dan Hare, 1984
Page Views: 2,736 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ken Leiden on Sep 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Protection

Standard rack. There are 4 bolts on the 2nd pitch, but gear is needed to augment the protection for a lead.

Description

Start between Fin 2 and Fin 3.

Pitch 1: Climb up a slab to a fun, but very thin flake on Fin 3 (a junior version of Wheat Thin in Yosemite). Layback the flake (5.8+, be sure to pull down, not out) and traverse left on decent holds (5.7/5.8) to a 2-bolt anchor. This could potentially be a stellar pitch, but it ends too soon.

Pitch 2: Head up the left side of the arete, past 3 bolts on sharp holds and a section of 10b. I found the climbing easier than other climbs of the same grade in Eldo. There was a long runout (perhaps 25 ft) and a switch to the other side of the arete to reach the 4th bolt, but the climbing wasn't difficult. Right above this bolt was a 10a slab, and then a hand and fist-sized crack that led to the summit of Fin 3.

A good climb for sure, but nothing spectacular. Down climb to the north past Fin 4 and the walk-off ledge.

Photos