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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (6)
FA: Greg Davis, Dan Hare, 1984
Page Views: 2,212 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ken Leiden on Sep 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Protection

Standard rack. There are 4 bolts on the 2nd pitch, but gear is needed to augment the protection for a lead.

Description

Start between Fin 2 and Fin 3.

Pitch 1: Climb up a slab to a fun, but very thin flake on Fin 3 (a junior version of Wheat Thin in Yosemite). Layback the flake (5.8+, be sure to pull down, not out) and traverse left on decent holds (5.7/5.8) to a 2-bolt anchor. This could potentially be a stellar pitch, but it ends too soon.

Pitch 2: Head up the left side of the arete, past 3 bolts on sharp holds and a section of 10b. I found the climbing easier than other climbs of the same grade in Eldo. There was a long runout (perhaps 25 ft) and a switch to the other side of the arete to reach the 4th bolt, but the climbing wasn't difficult. Right above this bolt was a 10a slab, and then a hand and fist-sized crack that led to the summit of Fin 3.

A good climb for sure, but nothing spectacular. Down climb to the north past Fin 4 and the walk-off ledge.
Patrik
  5.9+ PG13
Patrik  
  5.9+ PG13
Copy Ivan's comments above. Compared to Deviant, Highway of Diamond, Chockstone, Xanadu, and other 10a in Eldo, I think Moonlight Drive is a bit easier. There's a bunch of suspect rock on the first pitch, bit being careful, you only need to touch one suspect rock (the very large flake) while climbing it at 5.8 level. Just avoid the big suspect jugs and use the smaller and more stable features. Gear can also be placed away from the suspect stuff with a bit of imagination. Make sure your second is a solid climber as the traverse (5.6?) at the top of P1 doesn't have a lot of solid gear. Jul 12, 2011
Gold Plated Rocket Pony
Boulder, CO
 
Gold Plated Rocket Pony   Boulder, CO
 
Great climb. Both pitches are on the spicy side but not bad. I enjoyed this climb more than both V3 and Gonzo. Definitely don't agree with the description of "A good climb for sure, but nothing spectacular." The flake on P1 is cool. I don't think it's going anywhere, but I also didn't even think of place any pro behind it. I got a suspect #2 Metolius curved nut in on P2 between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but it was probably just mental help. Sep 27, 2008
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.10a/b
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.10a/b
I agree with Ivan.
"As for the gear between bolts 3 and 4, it is indeed at your feet. I used a #00 Metolius."
I used a blue Alien.

I also found this and Ichiban Arete about as difficult as Deviant. For the record I think Deviant is 10a easy. Aug 9, 2008
Tom T
  5.10a PG13
Tom T  
  5.10a PG13
I didn't think the runout between bolts was too bad. It would be an uncomfortable fall, but not a dangerous one. I found the suspect rock on P1 more spicy than anything else on the route. May 4, 2008
D. Shaw
  5.10b R
D. Shaw  
  5.10b R
Read all the comments. Good route indeed, but everyone who says watch out on p. 1 is quite right. Very suspect little holds, and the big flake is going to break if you pull out and hard on it. We all know it is possible to rate things differently, and maybe the folks who say p. 2 is 5.9 went some different way. The way we did it, definitely 10b. Also I said "R" as you do NOT want to fall at the 9+ move just before you clip the 4th/last bolt on the arete - pretty run out at that point (previous bolt maybe 25 feet down). Sep 10, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
5.9
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
5.9
I lead this today having followed it a year or two ago. It seemed very easy. The first pitch is maybe 5.7. The big flake was more solid than I remembered. The rock on the traverse left is atrocious--don't pull out on anything, but the gear is pretty good, and the climbing is very easy if you stay low. The crux is on positive 1/2 joint or bigger hand holds and pretty big feet, and is all in balance. One standup move is all. I had followed Deviant (9+) that morning and had more trouble following that than leading this. As for the gear between bolts 3 and 4, it is indeed at your feet. I used a #00 Metolius. Nov 18, 2006
Umph!
  5.10a
Umph!  
  5.10a
"No harder than 5.9" I just don't get it (my partner said the same thing, "5.9"). I think it is solid 10- for 3 moves. Also, this route should be considered S (Serious), due to the exfoliating/thin/rotten nature of several sections in P1 and the RO in P2. . . . at least remember this warning (and the others) if you're using this website as beta.Really fun climb - and exciting for the grade! Oct 1, 2005
Brian Sorden
  5.9
Brian Sorden  
  5.9
If you didn't find any gear between the third and fourth bolts, it's because it's at your feet when you're standing on the big ledge. Set two opposing small stoppers. Maybe it was the comfort of clipping bolts, but the second pitch seemed no harder than 5.9. I certainly concur with all the [trepidation] expressed over the first pitch death flakes. Pull carefully. Sep 25, 2005
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Recommended. Green or yellow alien before the traverse left on pitch one. Don't remember much gear on pitch two apart from the bolts. Jun 21, 2005
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
The move from the third bolt to the fourth bolt is not too bad minus the wind guts which really sucked. I didn't see any placements between these bolts at all. Pick a calm day to do this.

I followed the first pitch and noticed rotten flakes that probably wouldn't hold a fall. Solid 5.8 and fun, though. Mar 15, 2005
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.10b
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.10b
This route definately rates two stars. Very nice position with good exposure on both pitches. Jan 23, 2005
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.10b
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.10b
This is one of my favorite pitches. Tons of fun! The flake on P1 is a blast, but placing gear is sometimes hard as you have to contort around to see it. I'll aslo concur that the final 10-15 feet is a)S, and b) has some suspect rock in places (thin flakes waiting for their chance to go) and c) really fun. I doubled up on a couple of placements right out of the crack and felt OK about it. Don't head right to the roof; the bolts are a bit lower.I blew off stringing the 2 Ps together, therefore making my partner pull the cruxes, but I regret that. I think with long slings, they'd go together withough THAT MUCH drag.

When you get to the top, hit Midnight Trundler if you're so inclined.

Enjoy! Oct 9, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
 
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
 
This is a superb route! Climbing the P1 flake is excellent... to an airy hanging belay. I have to say the P2 (10b) face is fairly graded, and a very worthy pitch of Cadillac fin climbing... Oct 4, 2003
Great Route! P1 is moderately long 60-70 feet. Some suspect rock, that could be pryed loose with poor cam placements. IMHO not a great first lead for a 5.8 leader. 20 foot traverse left to the anchors if an onsight would be would be quite serious trying to route find because anchors can not be seen from last pro placement.P2- after Bolt 3, I was able to place a Blue Alien and Black/Blue Alien in a small slot on the ledge and equalize them with a sling. Either one on it's own with a higher impact fall would probably fracture the rock and you would take 40-50 ft fall, equalized they would likely hold, however the climbing is not that difficult getting to the bolt, unless there are 40-50 mph wind gusts?

Save a 3, 3.5 or 4 Camalot for the top.

I have climbed several routes at Cadillac, and this is one of the best. Sep 21, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
This is a great climb! The first pitch flake is cool - unique and fun. The runout traverse to the anchors isn't too bad (S-). Keep in mind that it's likewise S- for the follower. Pitch 2 is superb - airy and exposed on quality rock. It's peculiar (to me anyway) that the first ascentionists placed 3 bolts to protect the first 20' of this pitch, then ran it 30' to the 4th bolt! The difficulty eases to about 5.7 for this stretch, but a 60' fall past your belayer would be, well...exciting to say the least. I found a marginal smaller nut placement (#5 BD?) about half way between the 3rd and 4th bolts in a tiny pocket, but was sure glad to clip that last bolt. Used a .5 Camalot and yellow TCU to protect from there to the top.

Airy and exposed! Sep 21, 2003
Re my first comments. I led this pitch after following it the year earlier, so I think my comments are affected by that. I would hate to describe a pitch as easier than it is; I'd rather be on the conservative side. I defer to those climbers with more experience who commented above, and appreciate all the feedback this site offers. Sep 19, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I agree with Steve and Bryson. I remember leading the first pitch and being pretty nervous about taking a big fall in the final 10' . After Pete's comment I figured I was just being a wimp, or was missing some placements. Aug 23, 2002
I would concur with Bryson. The 1st pitch is rather spicy and I definitely wouldn't recommend it to a 5.8 leader. I do think the route is well worth the long approach when you're comfortable at this degree-of-difficulty. Aug 23, 2002
To me this did not seem like a good moderate lead up to the bolt anchor. There are some very suspect flakes above the wheat thin flake that are waiting to be pulled off onto someone's rope. This may be a moderate lead for someone more accustomed to ice climbing but anyone at their limit on 5.8 has a good chance of pulling something big off. I strung both pitches together without drag problems and thought the upper part was pretty good but found the bottom half to be rather dangerous and definitely not worth a trip in it's own right Aug 22, 2002
With the rap anchors at the top of the first pitch, this makes for an excellent moderate lead at about 5.8+ (Rossiter). The pro is fine with the exception of the top traverse, which is easy, the position airy, the flakes very funky. Just be aware that you'll need to traverse left before you reach the top of the roof in order to get to the anchors, and you'll have to place some funky pro to protect your second. (I used a pink tri cam and a small camalot). Jul 24, 2002