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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Greg Davis and Dan Hare, 1984
Page Views: 953 total, 5/month
Shared By: David Benson on Sep 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Emission Control starts with the first pitch of Gonzo and then breaks right across the west face, around the arete, and up the south face of the Fin Four.

Rossiter mentions the original start, but notes that everyone usually just starts with Gonzo. Begin as for Gonzo, to the left of a large block between fins three and four. Continue the up the left-arching crack (8). With careful rope management, the first two pitches can be combined. Otherwise belay at the corner.

Move up the left side of Fin Four and move right past the old bolt (crux) and continue to the arete. The rock immediately past the crux on the right side of the arete is of poor quality and protection is basically non-existent, but the climbing is easy (7). Continue up the arete, good gear is available about 25' up in a horizontal break (wise to double this up). Continue up the arete to the top. Belay from a single bolt at the top.

The crux moves I feel are pretty moderate for 10d. Rossiter rates the upper section 7s, but I think it is more s/vs. Close to the top you're a good 35-40' out from your last piece of protection.

Protection

Rack up to a #2 Camalot, bolts.

Photos

Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
This is a fun and worthwhile route, but it is not sustained. The crux is probably pulling onto the face. Save a #2 and 0.5 for the horizontal about 2/3 of the way up. Mar 10, 2016
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
Bolt upgraded 05/17/2015. May 17, 2015
Robert D.
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Robert D.   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
A pretty good route. The crux is protected by a bolt, making it 5.10d, 5.7 R. Nov 14, 2007