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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Brooks and Harrison, 1981
Page Views: 1,401 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route starts as a broken looking crack on the right-hand side of fin 3 of Cadillac Crag, which is the third from the right-most feature. The climb goes up a fissure to a finger crack, and then up that fingercrack past a tree to a belay niche. From there, belay. Pitch 2 tackles a bulge and continues to the top in the cracks (maybe 5.9?).

This climb is among the easiest climbs of its grade I have ever done if it is a 10d....

Protection

This route requires some small gear but not a lot of it. Maybe a few small nuts and a small TCU or Alien. Other than that, a standard rack is good enough to sew up the crack (primarily 0.5-1.5").

Photos

Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
 
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
 
Save a #3 for the roof. Mar 14, 2015
Patrik
  5.10b
Patrik  
  5.10b
Rossiter's book lists this as 10d, but I agree with Levine's new book as 10b. Super solid gear all the way. Jul 12, 2011
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.10-
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.10-
Good first 5.10. One 5.10 move, well protected with a micro cam or 2 or maybe an RP. Easier if you're tall (over 6 ft). May 28, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10-
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10-
I agree with Tony, this is one of the easiest 10s that I have done in Eldo. Maybe one move of 10a on this one with great pro. Mar 12, 2011
Regarding the 1.5-move wonder comments, the variation Auburn Court (posted separately on the Cadillac pages) offers quite a few more good moves, making this a much more sustained and interesting route. Jan 27, 2008
Richard Radcliffe
Louisville, CO
5.10
Richard Radcliffe   Louisville, CO
5.10
Agree with the others: a clear 1 1/2 move wonder. However, still worth doing if you're in the area since the rest of the climb is pleasant if easy. Fell at the crux leading it a few years back -- redeemed myself yesterday. An excellent start/warmup for Stargate. Jul 21, 2007
Brent Roaten
Anchorage, AK
  5.10d
Brent Roaten   Anchorage, AK
  5.10d
Did this today while waiting for Moonlight Drive to open up and found it to be a worthwhile route. As stated above, the route is definitely a one or two move wonder. The 5.9 dihedrals and roof above are really very good and would get 3 stars anywhere else in the canyon. The huge loose rocks at the top are scary. Definitely worth doing! Oct 16, 2005
This climb is a lot better if you take the variation called Auburn Court, which adds about 35 feet of quality crack climbing and a second crux (and avoids the rubble at the top). We should have listed it as a variation here, but it's posted as a separate route on this site. Jun 9, 2003
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
I thought this was an okay route. Crux is extremely brief (maybe one move) I could not tell any difference in rating between the first and second pitches. The top of the route is loose rock hell for anyone not being extremely careful.

I did both Morning Thunder and Over the Hill in the last couple of weeks and think both of those routes are harder than this. IMHO if it is even a 5.10, it would barely make 5.10a and only for one very brief move. Jun 8, 2003
Slightly chossy in places, with a very brief crux. Seems like a 10d move, though it's over quickly. Second pitch would be nice with a little traffic to clean it. The belay area at the top is loaded with precarious rocks ready to fall down into the dihedral - caution or hats advised, and I would steer well clear if another party is up there.

Not the worst route in the world, but if you're at Cadillac and craving some 5.10 crack... you walked just a bit too far up the hill. Oct 3, 2001