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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Brooks and Harrison, 1981
Page Views: 1,422 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Seasonal Closures Details


This route starts as a broken looking crack on the right-hand side of fin 3 of Cadillac Crag, which is the third from the right-most feature. The climb goes up a fissure to a finger crack, and then up that fingercrack past a tree to a belay niche. From there, belay. Pitch 2 tackles a bulge and continues to the top in the cracks (maybe 5.9?).

This climb is among the easiest climbs of its grade I have ever done if it is a 10d....


This route requires some small gear but not a lot of it. Maybe a few small nuts and a small TCU or Alien. Other than that, a standard rack is good enough to sew up the crack (primarily 0.5-1.5").


Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
Save a #3 for the roof. Mar 14, 2015
Rossiter's book lists this as 10d, but I agree with Levine's new book as 10b. Super solid gear all the way. Jul 12, 2011
Ben Burnett
Ben Burnett   Colorado
Good first 5.10. One 5.10 move, well protected with a micro cam or 2 or maybe an RP. Easier if you're tall (over 6 ft). May 28, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I agree with Tony, this is one of the easiest 10s that I have done in Eldo. Maybe one move of 10a on this one with great pro. Mar 12, 2011
Regarding the 1.5-move wonder comments, the variation Auburn Court (posted separately on the Cadillac pages) offers quite a few more good moves, making this a much more sustained and interesting route. Jan 27, 2008
Richard Radcliffe
Louisville, CO
Richard Radcliffe   Louisville, CO
Agree with the others: a clear 1 1/2 move wonder. However, still worth doing if you're in the area since the rest of the climb is pleasant if easy. Fell at the crux leading it a few years back -- redeemed myself yesterday. An excellent start/warmup for Stargate. Jul 21, 2007
Brent Roaten
Anchorage, AK
Brent Roaten   Anchorage, AK
Did this today while waiting for Moonlight Drive to open up and found it to be a worthwhile route. As stated above, the route is definitely a one or two move wonder. The 5.9 dihedrals and roof above are really very good and would get 3 stars anywhere else in the canyon. The huge loose rocks at the top are scary. Definitely worth doing! Oct 16, 2005
This climb is a lot better if you take the variation called Auburn Court, which adds about 35 feet of quality crack climbing and a second crux (and avoids the rubble at the top). We should have listed it as a variation here, but it's posted as a separate route on this site. Jun 9, 2003
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
I thought this was an okay route. Crux is extremely brief (maybe one move) I could not tell any difference in rating between the first and second pitches. The top of the route is loose rock hell for anyone not being extremely careful.

I did both Morning Thunder and Over the Hill in the last couple of weeks and think both of those routes are harder than this. IMHO if it is even a 5.10, it would barely make 5.10a and only for one very brief move. Jun 8, 2003
Slightly chossy in places, with a very brief crux. Seems like a 10d move, though it's over quickly. Second pitch would be nice with a little traffic to clean it. The belay area at the top is loaded with precarious rocks ready to fall down into the dihedral - caution or hats advised, and I would steer well clear if another party is up there.

Not the worst route in the world, but if you're at Cadillac and craving some 5.10 crack... you walked just a bit too far up the hill. Oct 3, 2001