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Routes in Cadillac Crag
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[Redacted] S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Face, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Escalade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Garbage Pile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,159 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 4, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures
Details
Per Mike McHugh, ECSP: The upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin and the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately.
This includes the Continental Crag climbing area.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing and hiking, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the south side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately.
This includes the Continental Crag climbing area.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing and hiking, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the south side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
A great pitch that sews together pieces of other wandering climbs into a nearly plumb line for a great and very long pitch.
Levin's new Eldo book lists 'variation' to Highway of Diamonds as an independent line which shares the bottom with Highway/Land Of Ra and the top pitch up the Arete of Highway Of Diamonds. It is actually possible to do this much more directly and share less ground with the other climbs.
To begin, start up the thin cracks left of the corner as for Land Of Ra, this is not easily protected but is moderate and offers some gear. If you backdown here, the rest of the climb was not for you anyway. Climb up past the left side of a small tree down low. Continue upward, aiming for a diagonal crack below a small bulge that leads into a very shallow, left-facing corner, perhaps 50 feet up. Climb up this left facing corner as for Levin's listed 'Variation' climb, but DO NOT traverse left to the arete as suggested. An intermittent crack system continues onward, above, and this is climbable at a moderate grade (perhaps 5.8, but not harder than 5.9). Continue in discontinuous cracks until they terminate in a blank face. The runout here is pretty long (20-30'), but the climbing feels both moderate (5.8?) and secure. Step left 2 moves to merge with Land Of Ra just below it's second to last bolt. Clipping that bolt is optional if you want to keep it all trad, but the next move is a step up in difficulty from the rest of the climbing (9+/10-?). Climb a few moves of Land Of Ra, then continue up and slightly left into more cracks, going directly up until your line merges with the Left hand arete very near to the top. Good protection is available here and there on this upper portion, left of the final moves and bolt of Land Of Ra.
Belay from a 2-bolt anchor. Looking down from the top I saw a nearly plumb line made, and had virtually no drag whatsoever, only the weight of 200' of rope.
Levin's new Eldo book lists 'variation' to Highway of Diamonds as an independent line which shares the bottom with Highway/Land Of Ra and the top pitch up the Arete of Highway Of Diamonds. It is actually possible to do this much more directly and share less ground with the other climbs.
To begin, start up the thin cracks left of the corner as for Land Of Ra, this is not easily protected but is moderate and offers some gear. If you backdown here, the rest of the climb was not for you anyway. Climb up past the left side of a small tree down low. Continue upward, aiming for a diagonal crack below a small bulge that leads into a very shallow, left-facing corner, perhaps 50 feet up. Climb up this left facing corner as for Levin's listed 'Variation' climb, but DO NOT traverse left to the arete as suggested. An intermittent crack system continues onward, above, and this is climbable at a moderate grade (perhaps 5.8, but not harder than 5.9). Continue in discontinuous cracks until they terminate in a blank face. The runout here is pretty long (20-30'), but the climbing feels both moderate (5.8?) and secure. Step left 2 moves to merge with Land Of Ra just below it's second to last bolt. Clipping that bolt is optional if you want to keep it all trad, but the next move is a step up in difficulty from the rest of the climbing (9+/10-?). Climb a few moves of Land Of Ra, then continue up and slightly left into more cracks, going directly up until your line merges with the Left hand arete very near to the top. Good protection is available here and there on this upper portion, left of the final moves and bolt of Land Of Ra.
Belay from a 2-bolt anchor. Looking down from the top I saw a nearly plumb line made, and had virtually no drag whatsoever, only the weight of 200' of rope.
Photos
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