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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad
FA: Hague and Reichart, 1981
Page Views: 2,844 total · 14/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Sep 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a fun 75 foot dihedral to the L of You're Ugly and Gonzo. The pro is all there, the anchors are bomber -- trees. It's a fast one pitch moderate climb that's ideal for beginning leaders. And, it stays in the shade a long time.

Protection

stoppers and cams, mid range

Photos

Better than it looks from below, quite enjoyable. Oct 22, 2001
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
For you beginning leaders, either don't fall or place closely spaced protection above the broken off stump (clearly pictured) to prevent horrendous impaling. Perhaps a saw.... Apr 25, 2003
Brenda Leach
Ridgway, CO
Brenda Leach   Ridgway, CO
This is an OK route, much easier than P2 of Gonzo. I don't think this gets climbed often. In the dihedral crack, there's a bit of vegetation and dirt. Makes the feet "interesting" when there's not much on the face. Lots of loose rock at the top. Be careful when belaying from above. Sep 20, 2004
Scott Edlin
boulder, co
  5.7
Scott Edlin   boulder, co
  5.7
Maybe it was just because I hadn't warmed up, but I got pretty pumped on this. As with all routes in this area, there is a ton of loose rock piled up on top. The stump should be either removed or sharpened to a fine point for beginning leader kabobs. May 7, 2006
jay baichi
  5.7
jay baichi  
  5.7
This is a fun climb. I would recommend this climb to any leader. But I agree about the stump. If you fall - Owwww! Aug 3, 2007
Ben Helgeson
Denver
 
Ben Helgeson   Denver
 
Great climb! Someone has 'adjusted' the stump recently. There is no longer potential for getting goosed/impaled. Very fun route! May 26, 2008
Rick Blair
Denver
  5.7+
Rick Blair   Denver
  5.7+
No one mentioned the nice laybacking starting half way. Fun route! Lots of loose rocks at belay ledge, watch out! I knocked a few down. Jul 30, 2008
Julie Clements and I climbed this route in '71 or '72. I don't know if we were the first, but there were no signs (pin scars) of anyone else climbing it before. We protected it entirely with chocks, and a previous party might have too. Sep 9, 2011
Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
The infamous tree stump has been removed. Note--the very loose walk-off ledge traverses just above this pitch, so expect some rockfall on a busy day. Apr 23, 2012
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.7
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
  5.7
This climb is much better than it looks, and I thought it was a lot of fun. If you want more of a challenge, climb the finger crack on the right side before stemming into the corner. Only downside is that it is a little grassy. Aug 30, 2015
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
 
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
 
There really aren't too many quality one pitch climbs of this grade in Eldorado. I thought this was quite fun and has a lot of interesting stemming between the cracks on the right and the corner. It is worth nothing that the detatched block (that a beginning leader might be tempted to place gear in) on the right immediately following the stump, moves a bit and will not take reliable protection despite its appearance. As soon as you pass this block, there is a solid single crack that will take a good finger-sized piece. Nov 2, 2015

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