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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter
Page Views: 2,180 total, 11/month
Shared By: David Benson on Sep 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start at a tree about 50' up a gully between Fin One and Fin Two. From the tree, move up and diagonaling up and right on good holds. It is possible to clip the first bolt of The Untitled (12a) as well as the first bolt of Ichiban Arete. Move around the corner, clip a bolt and continue up easy climbing (7) to the summit. The [rappel] bolts here are not very well placed, but you can [rappel] to the NW and then scramble down.

The bolt out and right of the belay tree is NOT for Ichiban Arete. Don't make this mistake like we did, you end up on an alternate start to The Untitled (11c/d). The moves are good, but [definitely] not 10b.

Protection

QDs and a light rack.

Photos

This is Richard Rossiter on 1 December 2017. I have been looking back at my life and trying to comprehend what I was doing. Regarding the name of this route: while I was married to Joyce, I went through a weird "Turning Japanese" phase of my life. Ichiban is pronounced each ee bon (as in bon fire) and means: number one. Dec 1, 2017
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
No way this thing is "R" on anything more than 5.6 climbing. You can place good gear before leaving the dihedral, and from there, it's hand over hand across a very large and positive handrail before reaching a bomber nut and #1 placement for the mantle to the first bolt. From there, it's well-protected by bolts until the arete where the difficulty eases off significantly. Higher on the arete, you can even get a great #3 in a hueco to protect the final few moves to the top.

Don't let the rating scare you off, it's great face climbing with good protection for all of the more difficult climbing! Oct 20, 2015
Patrik
  5.9+
Patrik  
  5.9+
I agree with Ivan above. Compared to Deviant, Highway of Diamonds, Chockstone, Xanadu, and other 10a routes in Eldo, Ichiban is a bit easier. Gearwise, I would put it at PG. Mostly you get great gear (and you can even back up a bolt with a great nut!), but there is a small runout section. However, there's nothing to hit if falling. Jul 12, 2011
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.9+ R
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.9+ R
I like it spicy! Don't put another bolt in, it's pretty obvious what you're getting into from safety; it's a choice to go up or not, if you're not feeling it, rap off!

Also, a #1 C4 goes in well after the initial right traverse on the quest over to the bolt.

At the top, there is a bolted anchor at the top of The Untitled in addition to the top anchor. The top anchor has a long cordelette and a large quicklink, and the Untitled anchor has rings.

@Gregg: Sounds like your disappointment stems not from the lack of quality of IB, but frustration with your inability to sack up and lead The Untitled. Since IB is well below your ability, pretend, for a moment, that some other climbers don't TR .12 like you can, and that leading a .10/.9+ face route with an exciting runout is fun!

Good route, Richard! Apr 29, 2011
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9 PG13
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9 PG13
Compared to nearby sandbag 9+'s Deviant and Highway of Diamonds, this climb is very easy. With double ropes, the initial traverse is safe and not at all scary. I then downclimbed a bit and traversed out. I didn't see the Tri Cam placement that Tony mentioned, but there's a sinker brass nut in the thin vertical crack to protect the move up to the first bolt.I clipped my left rope a little too high up the corner and so had some drag after I rounded the arete. It would have been better to clip the left rope to the nut in the corner and then to the 3rd rather than 2nd or 1st bolts and clip the right bolt to a nut (optional) and 1st and 2nd bolts. Jul 7, 2009
D. Shaw
  5.10a R
D. Shaw  
  5.10a R
Worth doing if you like the dicey lead. Go up the gulley from the tree, not out to the funky looking bolt to right of the tree. Place gear in the corner, then traverse right to good holds (don't fall!). Work your way to the bottom bolt in the line on the 12a route, then veer off right (crux) to a bolt near the arete. If you then step right onto the arete, it is a long way to the next bolt, but very fun, easy climbing. Sep 3, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b R
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.10b R
Even with the tri-cam placement, this route definitely warrants an 'R' rating. Apr 29, 2007
Umph!
  5.9+
Umph!  
  5.9+
Great little line on excellent rock. Yes, the first bolt clip and the upper section should both be considered RO (though the climbing is easy). Also, there is no way that this route is 10b - solid 9+ (and a very short crux at that). Adding a bolt is unnecessary (though the old rap anchors and their position are questionable). Sep 30, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
An extra bolt might not hurt the route, I guess. If it doesn't get placed, or until it does, you can put good gear in. Just take your Lowe tricams & look for the pocket. My partner and I both though it was bomber. Oct 6, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
 
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
 
Followed this today and we found the initial clip way [runout]. My leader threaded a runner off a branch on the fir tree...as the first clip is a ways up, with no other apparent pro. Richard, I agree, a bolt down lower is necessary. The climbing felt a bit soft for (10b) on the face, but good nonetheless. Decent crimps...Once up on the arete its a fun jugfest. Oct 4, 2003
Joyce (my wife of the time) and I did this route and The Untitled nearly 20 years ago. I went back up and climbed these routes during the summer of 2002. The initial stretch above the "belay tree" is really bogus and needs an additional bolt. Also the anchors at the top of the tower are not in a useful place and should probably be relocated at the top of face of The Untitled. This is a case of 20-20 hindsight. Please realize that 20 years ago "sport climbing" was in its infancy and the concept of lowering off from a climb was nearly unknown. One simply led the pitch, brought up the second, then walked off or rappelled. It was an extension of mountaineering.

Cadillac Crag is not in Eldorado Canyon State Park, nor is it in Boulder Mountain Parks. I believe this crag lies in a narrow stretch of BLM land and is not subject to the bolting restrictions of either agency. I may very well return and upgrade the fixed gear as is logical by modern standards. Sep 28, 2003
ICHIBAN!!! yeah Mark, I thought the same thing about the grade, super cool route though. Bolts en route are new and draws will do for pro if you don't mind running it out a bit. Those bolts on top are starting to look pretty ancient and they are sharp, check the webbing.. Aug 22, 2002
I did this route several years ago and found it easy for 5.10b. Climbing up the arete is fun and very exposed. You can stick a cam (#3 Camalot, I think) in one of the pockets as psychological pro if you want, but I don't advise falling here.

The rappel bolts are in a odd spot, but for what its worth, you can rig a toprope from them for the untitled 5.12 (which is decent climb) with a little webbing. Apr 4, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
It is also quite possible to place a reasonably good Lowe tricam prior to reaching the bolts. It is the red one, if I recall correctly, but it has been years... I carry only pink, red, brown, so it has to be one of those. Oct 16, 2001