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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 95 ft
FA: J. Roberts, B. Ruckman, 1988
Page Views: 286 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 30, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a fun route with a short but hard crux right off of the deck.

Look directly out past the newly replaced bolt (5/2015, thanks to ACE). Move out right to that bolt (5.10-), and clip that, which might be hard for short climbers. The moves to the bolt could probably be made easier by stemming off of the tree, but that is not necessary.

Having clipped the bolt, make difficult (crux) moves to go right and out to access a finger crack. The moves in the finger crack are generally solid and well-protected for a few body lengths and are not hard climbing, perhaps 5.9+.
When the crack ends, put in a final bit of gear. A passive brown or red tricam is perfect. A medium stopper is reasonably good but is slightly more likely to wiggle out in the next traversing moves.

If you liked the style of the crux and want 70 more feet of sustained moves like that, continue up and left to finish on The Untitled (12a). If you have sore toes or tips, head up and right to finish on Ichiban Arete (10a) on sparse trad gear.

Location

Start as for Ichiban Arete or The Untitled, at the belay tree amid the First Route.

Protection

From the tree on First Route, there is a single bolt then thin to off-fingers gear. A brown Tricam sits perfectly at the top of the crack, but a medium/large nut will do. After that, you can climb up and left to join a line of 8 bolts on The Untitled (12a) or out right to join Ichibahn Arete with a little trad gear(10a, PG-13).

There is a bolted belay up top that will get you back to the tree, then do one more rap to the ground from that sling and ring belay.

Per Gregger Man: the bolt was upgraded on 05/30/2015.

Photos

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Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
Bolt upgraded on 05/30/2015. (Needs to be added to the MP database here.)

May 30, 2015