Early Access
| Type: | Trad, TR |
| GPS: | 39.9874, -105.29196 |
| FA: | Matt Samet, Josh Deuto, August, 2001 |
| Page Views: | 2,603 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Aug 25, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This route is in the gully leading up to the Ghetto on the back (west) side of the 3rd Flatiron as you approach from the Royal Arch Trail. It is on the un-named spire just up the gully from W.C. Fields Pinnacle and about 120 feet south of and below the scramble up into the Ghetto.
An existing route, Holier Than Thou (11b) climbs the right side of the west overhang via 5 bolts, and a pin to double bolt anchors. Funny Games is just left and can be easily toproped off the double bolts at the top of the spire.
Start off the platform, place a #1 Camalot in the rotten break and move up and right into holes (5.10s). Cruise up bomber huecos past a #3 Camalot to a ledge with an old 1/4 bolt on the left (ignore this bolt). Move right and clip the pin on Holier Than Thou, preferably backing it up. Move back left into the center of the bulge and fire past sidepulls and huecos to the small black streak at the top of the wall (12+ with decent whipper potential onto small gear).



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